MotoRomania.com - A Motorcycle Tour of Romania

2007-01-02T20:04:00.000-06:00

To all of our dear Family, Friends and Readers:

HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!

May 2007 bring you new adventures, opportunities, successes, and fulfillment. May you explore new paths and roads (especially on two wheels).

January 1, 2007 12:00 AM, Romania celebrated its entry into the European Union with great fanfare. The event graced the front page of CNN.com - http://www.cnn.com/2006/WORLD/europe/12/31/bulgaria.romania.ap/index.html . - BGR & HSR

2006-12-31T18:17:00.000-06:00

Life has been far from ordinary the past year. Unknowns. Discomforts. Different languages. Different foods. Different currency. Different places to call home. Different beds. Different restrooms (or lack thereof). It has made for a different ‘us.’ My husband said several months ago that Romania will not leave you indifferent. And it has not.

Returning to the States was overwhelming given the surrounding constant stimuli. Was everything always so bright? So bold? So BIG? The vehicles, the stores, the houses, the yards... Were people always this hurried? Were their faces always filled with such unhappiness and intense worry? Balancing the stressful demands of the personal - careers and marriages and children - in order to maintain the highly impersonal - mortgages and vehicles and vacations - costs us as a nation, our health and our lives.

Admittedly, it has been nice to be "off the radar" for a few months - no blogs and no photos! A quote from the Real Lessons of Leadership comes to mind - "Silence is the most fertile medium for creativity and vision."

Since our return to the States, time set aside to “just be” has been amazingly refreshing for the soul. Time spent quietly savoring the treasures Romania settled in the crevices of our hearts. Time spent sharing the journey with family and friends. Time spent exploring through writing, reading, experiencing the outdoors, as well as listening and observing intensely, like the months in Romania. Merely, respecting and appreciating the presence of Time with a renewed sense of the importance of experiencing fully each moment, as it never comes again.

Romania helped me rediscover the beauty in the simple moments of life. My Romania is witnessing the tiny, colorful blooms peeking through the cold earth in the spring to the vibrant, lush greens and yellows in the summer heat to the withering browns in the autumn breeze. I remember the drenching, cold rains in May and June dampening our motorcycle adventure, yet providing more time to serve at Caminul Felix Children's Villages. I remember the smell of wood fires still providing warmth and serving food in the mountain regions in July. I remember the unbelievable sweltering heat of the plains in August, as we were trapped under layers of protective motorcycle gear. I remember the flavors of the fresh vegetables, fruits and cheeses, and the delectable tastes of homemade breads and sweets. I remember (and can almost taste) the environmental pollutions emitting from the factories and vehicles.

But my Romania was found in the hospitality of the people in the countryside. It was their friendly smiles, their extended hand in welcome, and their warm embrace welcoming me to experience their community. My Romania too is the beautiful faces of the children of Caminul Felix Children's Villages.

I finished Robert Pirsig's Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance and found the final paragraph to state so aptly: "Trials never end, of course. Unhappiness and misfortune are bound to occur as long as people live, but there is a feeling now, that was not here before, and is not just on the surface of things, but penetrates all the way through. We've won it. It's going to get better now. You can sort of tell these things."

There is a sense that we have won it. It - the prize of life, the peace of existence. Continue to follow our journey as we open our hearts to a new direction in 2007. -- HSR

2006-11-01T12:14:00.000-06:00

MotoRomania has landed back in the U.S.!!! What a week it has been. The motorcycle took only three days to make it from Budapest to New York City. We picked it up a week ago at Berklay Cargo's warehouse. The bike arrived completely wrapped in plastic and in great shape. The guys in Hungary did a fantastic job of shipping it. It took them a long time to figure out the process and the paperwork, but the execution was first class.

Thankfully, the weather was sunny and fairly warm for this time of the year in NY. We took off from JFK through Brooklyn, over the Verazzano Bridge onto Staten Island, and then into New Jersey. The Verazzano turned out to be cheaper for the bike at $4, but quite the trip for a car at $9 (!) The views of lower Manhattan were quite stunning, though.

The first day, we made it through Pennsylvania, almost to Maryland. The next morning, it was 30 degrees when we woke up...not fun! So, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and after layering, we took off.

The fall colors were in full bloom as we crossed Maryland and West Virginia. And despite the sunny weather, the temperatures were looooow... Riding the bike proved painful at times, particularly for the extremities. The views did make up for the experience--I-68 and I-79 are quite the twisty roads for being interstates. I could not help myself while trying to keep warm on the ride and kept humming John Denver's tune: "Country road, take me home... to the place where I belong... West Virginia, country momma... take me home..."

West Virginia was also the warmest point of the day, with temps reaching in the mid-50s. A couple of stops to thaw and replenish fuel for both bike and rider were more than welcome.

Approaching Kentucky, the skies turned grey and cold. By the time we had the state line in sight, it started to rain--what a soggy welcome home! But, we had made it. A few more hours and we arrived, wet, cold and hungry. The greeting party was embracing, the warm shower was fantastic, and the food was delicious!

And our journey had come full circle. We had started in Kentucky, rode the bike to NYC to have it placed on a plane and flown to Europe. We had journeyed through Hungary and Romania, had the bike flown back to NYC and rode it back to Kentucky. The bike odometer recorded our journey at 10,600 miles for the six months.

What a life-changing experience this has been! I am sure that it will take time to fully realize the impact this journey has had upon our lives. But, we realize that it could not have been possible without the incredible support and dedication of our families and friends. We can only extend you a sincere THANK YOU! While realizing that we can never repay your generosity, we hope this journey has spoken to you as well in some way. -- BGR & HSR

2006-10-19T03:02:00.000-05:00

Yesterday marked the last motorcycle ride in Europe. I rode the bike from Romania to the Budapest Cargo Airport, where the bike was placed on a plane to the US.

The ride was pleasant, if somewhat melancholic. The weather was beautiful, with fall temperatures and a bright sunlight that lifted my mood. On the 200-mile ride, I had time to contemplate the past year, and all the events, places, people and adventures that it provided. Some were happy, others left a bruise, but as I moved across the M5 freeway toward Budapest, the golden light of the autumn sun cast a liberating glow over these moments. With this ride a large chapter was closing. Yet, the same miles lead the way toward a new horizon, a new adventure.

The shipping preparations in Budapest were fairly swift. The good folks at Hunicorn had taken care of all the paperwork (thank you, Mike). All I had to do was ride the bike on the skid and strap it down. Then it was loaded into a van, ready for its ride to the plane.

What a sight... and, ultimately what a ride...

New York City, here I come! -- BGR

2006-10-02T03:29:00.000-05:00

Leaving Caminul Felix

Saying good-bye is never easy…to eleven children and their parents that have worked their way into your heart in a short five months, it is difficult. We hugged and kissed each one at the Cypress House and told them something special. “Good luck in college. I am proud of you. You are beautiful. I love you.” These were only words to fill the pain of silence and goodbye.

We heard their shouts. We saw their smiling faces and energetic waves. All summer, we knew we would be back in a few days or a few weeks. Today, this was our final visit. We rode away from Caminul Felix Village Two, waving frantically and watching as we had so many times before--children waving across the village until we were out of sight. We stopped and looked back up the road at the village and the farm tucked in the plains…praying for their continued blessing and their changed lives.

For me, Caminul Felix bridged my fears of leaving my career by providing an opportunity to give my professional talents and my heart during our five-month stay in Romania. The perk was interacting everyday with the children who are directly receiving the resources and the services from this amazing non-profit organization. For the past eight years, I certainly loved my fundraising work in higher education. Actually, I was convinced life couldn’t get any better than being on a college campus everyday, establishing processes and strategies to engage donors, and traveling the country meeting successful alumni and hosting special events, while asking for funds and advancing the institution’s mission. I always enjoyed the return visit to campus to get acquainted with a student or chat with a faculty member. Yet, these moments are often lost in the goals of the system and dismissed as intangible.

I am here to tell you life does get better. It gets better when you give your whole heart. For me, that meant working for free with no window office, no title to validate my existence, no paycheck, no health benefits, and no retirement program. To work just to be satisfied at the end of the day with nothing but the feeling to have given it my all. To work beside my husband on a project that is bigger than us. To have an opportunity just to give of ourselves together…

It may not be the Marriott, the Hilton or the Westin, but the bunk bed at the Cypress House with eleven kids demanding attention (and hating to hear about your work) remind me fundraising changes lives one day at a time. It was meant as an opportunity to give to others… but I am simply a life changed by an experience which gave so much to me. -HSR

2006-10-02T03:17:00.000-05:00

The beautiful children in the villages across Romania have captured my heart. These are the faces of the future of Romania.

Their wave, whistle or shout brings an immediate smile to our faces. However, we immediately realize our cheeks are squished in a helmet and our teeth cannot be seen! So we wave back or honk.

With so much sadness in the world, please take time to remember the innocent lives in our community and our world. Share a smile. Give the gift of laughter and love. Believe in the dreams of a child. – HSR

2006-09-23T08:18:00.000-05:00

Transfagarasan Highway—Riding the Transylvanian Dragon

Ah…did we ever save the best for last! The entire summer we waited for the snows to disappear from the peaks of the Fagaras Mountains (Romania's tallest), so we could experience the most magnificent road in Romania—the Transfagarasan. It is the highest paved road in the country with the wildest curves, turns and panoramic views. The road lived up to its expectations—it IS a rider's paradise!

The road runs for about 100 kilometers, almost half of which is made up of nothing but hairpins and zigzags, competing with stunning views of the Fagaras Mountains. The road climbs to 2,020 meters at its highest point with several waterfalls springing out and snow still visible in August. The road is shared by backpackers and tourists who, even in August, wear layers of warm clothing against the low temperature—it hovers around zero Celsius (32 Fahrenheit). We were happy to have our fleece-lined riding gear. The road is also used by sheep roaming from one pasture to another on the mountainside.

We approached the road from the north, as the road quality was quite good. As you might suspect, we stopped frequently on our initial ascent—the fresh air, the constantly changing sky, the tall pines and firs, the waterfalls, and the incredible road…

Riding to Balea Lake, the highest point on the road was absolutely amazing. After taking in the breathtaking views and walking on snow cap bordering the lake, we passed through the tunnel heading south.

The tunnel is half a mile long. On the opposite side of the mountain, the road is just as dramatic, but more sinuous in nature. The views are fantastic and the riding experience unique. Several kilometers after the descent, the road quality decreased. We took this opportunity to enjoy a picnic lunch roadside before retracing our route to film. Yes, the ride up the south side and down the north side was captured on film. We look forward to having this available on our website soon!

In celebration of our passenger's birthday, the first snow of the 2006 winter season fell on the Transfagarasan on August 31st! It is well known throughout Romania that the road is open for traffic mainly between June and September. Moto-enthusiasts, if at all possible, we highly recommend you plan your visit to Romania in the summer!

However, the journey is not complete without mentioning the many lives sacrificed in creating this spectacular road. The road was the vision of former dictator, Nicolae Ceausescu. It was built between 1970 and 1974, as a north-to-south crossing at the historical border between Transylvania and Wallachia. It came as a response to the 1968 invasion of Czechoslovakia by the Soviet Union. Ceausescu wanted to ensure quick military access across the mountains in the event the Soviets attempted a similar move into Romania. Consequently, the road was built mainly with military forces, at a high cost both financially and from a human standpoint—roughly 6 million kilograms of dynamite were used on the northern face, and about 40 soldiers lost their lives in building accidents.

Riding the Transfagarasan was an exhilarating experience. Recognizing the sacrifice made to build it was humbling. At the end of the day, we can only enjoy, celebrate and share the road in honor of all those lives who made it possible.

We cannot think of a better way to close our motorcycle journey through Romania. Knowing it was our final riding destination, we took our time to savor every moment. And from the top of the Fagaras Mountains, looking towards the Transylvanian Plateau, the realization finally dawned on us—we have just completed an incredible, life-changing journey! - BGR & HSR

2006-09-14T11:52:00.000-05:00

Sunshine greeted us the next morning for our journey into the Izei and Viseu Valleys. The road meanders pleasantly through the forests. As light streams through the trees, it makes for an almost magical ride.

We determined our day’s scenic loop and proceeded south to Sacel. Sacel boasts traditional Romanian pottery. Yet, after several rides through the village in search of a shop, we were about to give up in frustration—we could not locate a shop or a sign. On the second pass through town we finally see the sign—barely big enough to be visible and worn by time. After seeing the poor gravel road and tired of chasing pottery in the midday heat, our driver parks on the main road.

The real story begins with me deciding to walk the 300 meters through the village in search of the Sacel Pottery Shop! Only 300 meters - not bad. But as I walk the 300 meters, another sign with an arrow directs me to proceed another 400 meters. (There was a slight hesitation, but after all I had walked this far!) THEN…farther down the road, another sign and arrow indicate 200 meters up an incline road lined with livestock!

Furious and tired of the heat, I continue determined to locate the pottery. Sigh…I finally see the shop. BUT, upon arrival, it is closed for lunch! I peer inside and in the shop’s courtyard searching for someone. About to leave in utter frustration, I find the doorbell (and am relieved I don’t have to explain to my husband that the walk didn’t provide any treasure). The potter arrives and we have a short, pleasant exchange in Romanian. I browse through the merchandise on display, find a beautiful pot and trek back to the main road to share my adventure!

Meanwhile, our driver has entertained a young boy on a bicycle and a man who had walked through town. As I arrive, he shares part of his conversation, in which the man was marveling at the size of the motorcycle. In fact, he had compared it with his cow, saying it was about as large! A lot of laughter ensued, especially as my husband and the man were discussing the option of actually riding a cow on the main road. The man was clear about his hesitation to ride anything on two wheels, concluding with the remark—to each his own cow!!

Continuing south on 17C, we pause to admire the Rodna Mountains as well as the picturesque countryside and landscapes.

Arriving in dreary Nasaud, we photograph the interesting, if a bit bizarre, sculptures in the center's park.

We headed north on 17D to Sangeorz-Bai and see a sign indicating the road is closed in Valea Mare. Knowing Romanian roads, our driver decides to see how far we can go and believes that the sign has not been taken down since repairs from the extensive spring floods in this area. Enjoying the beautiful weather, we ride without a care through the countryside to Valea Mare where we finally witness several mudslides and forest debris roadside. But the asphalt is still good quality and passable for the motorcycle. However, it is only a few kilometers later and we arrive at a point where the road splits and turns to dirt (and mud from the previous day's rains). "Which way?"

Our driver inquires from the nearby logging workers if the dirt road is passable enroute to the Prislop Pass. They assure him that the next 20 kilometers or so might be a bit muddy but traffic had been going through all day! So we decide to proceed slowly and turn around if need be. Not a word was spoken as our driver navigated around more and more mud and water and potholes and forest debris. The higher the road went, the deeper the ruts became and the muddier the surface. With worn tires and a fully loaded bike, we decided it was wiser to turn around and leave the off-roading for another day. Yes, some off-road tires would have been fantastic.

Realizing we still had bread, vegetables and cheese in the trunk, we enjoyed a picnic past Valea Mare by the rolling Somesul Mare river.

We retraced the 73 kilometers on 17D then headed south on 17C to Bistrita. Bistrita is a bustling market town with several new residences in construction on its outskirts. It is home to the Coroana de Aur ("Golden Crown"), a hotel made famous by Bram Stoker's character, Jonathan Harker who supposedly stayed here. Oddly enough, there was no hotel at the time the book Dracula was published—it was built later. - HSR & BGR

2006-09-01T12:23:00.000-05:00

South from Sighet, we begin our journey on DN 18 through the Mara Valley, the heart of Maramures, with the sole purpose to see the renowned wooden churches.

In Berbesti, our rider searches for the steeple of a wooden church only to realize kilometers later, we had passed the ornately carved 300 year old cross. The cross was for travelers to pray for a safe journey. [It is interesting to note that Tuesday was considered an unlucky travel day and night was said to bring out the ghosts and the vampires!]

The next village is Giulesti with its odd "pot trees" in the yards. The purpose is a practical one (with the added bonus of decoration) - to air the pots! We enjoyed a conversation with a woman and her daughter who were curious about our journey on the motorcycle. We also admired the beautiful wooden homes.

We took a very rough gravel road for one kilometer (which felt like miles) to Manastirea Giulesti. The beautiful wooden church (1633) is difficult to find as it is hidden behind a house on the hillside with no signage. Its most unique feature is the remnants of frescoes on the outside wall, similar to those seen on the Bucovina monasteries. We met a Belgian couple with their children and learned of their month-long travels through Hungary, Romania, the Republic of Moldova and Ukraine.

Relieved to be back on the main road, we stopped at the Sat-Sugatag wooden church. Its ornate gate, compact church, wooden cross gravestones, and spacious yard makes this a special destination.

We took an unplanned route twisting through the hills with amazing views of the villages. We do something we have taken so little time during the day to do on this journey - just stop and sit and listen to the simple sounds of the wind and feel the pleasant breeze. How we both wish we could capture time!

With Budesti only four kilometers away, we decided to visit this quaint village. Traditional dress is often worn in this region in everyday life - in particular, the men wear small stray hats that look similar to an inverted straw hat. Budesti's spectacular wooden church (1643) is designated an UNESCO World Heritage site.

We met two men from Borsa who were hauling timber and waiting for their truck engine to cool and inquired of our travels. They recommended a shortcut through the picturesque villages and encouraged our visit to Barsana. Our first stop, we thought was the Barsana Monastery. We soon realized it was a recently constructed church! The locals directed us to a nearby small wooden museum showcasing the wooden treasures of a man who had been featured at the Smithsonian Folk Festival in the 1990s!

Only a few kilometers past the village is the popular Orthodox pilgrimage spot, "the" Barsana Monastery. The landscape and grounds are immaculate. The church stands majestically with its 56-meter steeple. The wooden buildings were built primarily in 1993.

Watching the sunset atop the hillside and surrounded by the quietness, we reflect on the amazing beauty of the Maramures wooden churches. We return to Vadu Izei to enjoy another picnic dinner and evening listening to the village sounds. - HSR & BGR

2006-09-01T12:05:00.000-05:00

From Vadu Izei it's a short 7-10 kilometers to Sighetu Marmatiei (known as Sighet). The town is Romania’s northernmost city bordering the Ukraine.

Sighet’s two outstanding landmarks are the prison museum (1997) and the childhood home of Elie Wiesel (2002). The Sighet prison was notorious during communism for its severe mistreatment of about 180 political prisoners held here between 1948 and 1952. These most feared intellectual opponents were given 700 calories a day often dying of starvation. The memorial plaque reads "in memory of the young, intelligent people at the forefront of Romanian intellectual life who were imprisoned because they did not believe in communism and died, through torture, in this odious prison." Elie Wiesel, 1986 Noble Peace Prize winner and writer who coined the term “Holocaust” was born in Sighet (and later deported from here).

The town is fairly pleasant and has a well-stocked supermarket for the road traveler--Artima. We were happy to find bottled water, cheeses, fruits and vegetables for plenty of picnics. We also observed more US license plates here than anywhere else in the country! A good number of Romanians who had emigrated to the US return for vacations and holidays, oftentimes bringing their prized vehicles with them.

Our next stop was Sapanta known for its “Merry Cemetery.” The church’s graveyard is famous for its colorfully painted wooden crosses sharing the deceased story of life and death. Ioan Patras began painting the crosses blue (color of hope and freedom) and adding witty epitaphs in 1935. He even carved and painted his own cross which marks his tomb (1977). The crosses paint a representative picture of the region’s occupations – farmers, mothers, shepherds, weavers, barbers, forest workers, teachers, and soldiers. His apprentice, Dumitru Pop carries on the tradition of making crosses for those villagers who pass – in Patras’ former house and workshop.

Yet the rest of the village doesn’t seem to notice the constant flow of tourists marveling at these unique crosses and carries on with its traditions of weaving, embroidering and living. We enjoyed a conversation with an older man who shared his advice for a long, simple life and inquired about us. He recommended we visit the nearby monastery which boasts the tallest wooden church in Europe and is still in the building process.

While gazing up the 75 meter spire and admiring the magnificent wood carvings and impressive structure, we met Alex from Suceava visiting the Sapanta monastery with his father. Alex is 23 years old and, not uncommon for his age and gender, works much of the year out of the country in Western Europe. His brother is a monk at one of the monasteries in Bucovina. A neat guy with a really neat story.

From Sapanta, we stopped to photograph an interesting modern Catholic Church enroute back to Sighet and caught a man’s attention who inquired about the motorcycle. These interactions remind us how special Romania’s people are--curious, social, engaging and always ready with a story. - BGR & HSR

2006-09-01T11:59:00.000-05:00

The largest town in Maramures and the county seat is Baia Mare (Big Mine). The city was known for its gold mines in the 14th and 15th centuries. During Ceausescu's regime, there was a permanent sulphur-dioxide/metal powder smog looming overhead from the metal plants (annually 5 billion cubic meters of gases were emitted). In the 1990s, a new smoke stack was constructed to ease air pollution. Then, in early 2000, a spill from the Aurul gold mine contaminated the water supply of 2.5 million people, devastated ecosystems of rivers, and affected six countries. Cyanide-contaminated water was released from the mine reaching nearby rivers, then the Danube and on to the Black Sea. We noticed the drinking water was still considered unsafe in this area.

We were impressed at Baia Mare's expansive and revitalizing Piata Libertatii with its renovated storefronts and terraces. The 14th century Stephen's Tower is nearby. After relaxing in the afternoon sunshine and making calls for lodging, we headed north to Vadu Izei.

We arrive at Pensiune Dumbrava Minunata, a beautiful wooden guesthouse off the main street on a hillside. The gazebo provided an excellent dinner spot to enjoy the sunset and picnic. – HSR & BGR

2006-09-01T11:55:00.000-05:00

We started our trip toward Maramures further south, in the city of Alba Iulia. Aside from its historical significance, Alba Iula (Karlsburg's Weissenberg in German) is not much for the eye as most of its older buildings were bulldozed under Ceausescu with concrete replacements favored. In the heart of Alba Iulia's citadel are the Roman Catholic and Orthodox cathedrals. Several famous Transylvanian princes are buried in the Catholic cathedral. The Orthodox Church (1922) was built for the coronation of King Ferdinand I and Queen Marie (their frescoed portraits are on the rear walls). The 58 meter tall bell tower and gardens are striking. It is also within these 18th century walls that the Act of Unification between Romania and Transylvania was signed (1918).

North from Alba Iula, we passed through wine country and entered the town of Teius. A few kilometers north is the town of Aiud. Aiud (Nagyenyed in Hungarian) has one of the oldest fortresses in Transylvania with its intact walls and eight towers.

A summer rain shower caught us by surprise and fortunately, we were able to immediately pull undercover at a MOL gas station. It was here we met a Romanian rider traveling to Targu Mures for a 5-day rock festival and then on to Sighisoara's medieval festival.

Turda (Torda) is known for its salt mines and gorges. The 13th century mines closed in the 1930s with a portion of the area today used to aid those with respiratory ailments.

Route E60/E81 provides a great scenic road with a winding descent into Cluj-Napoca. Since we had spent time previously in Cluj, we continued north passing the town of Gherla (known for its notorious prison). It was on to Dej with its ominous factories pushing pollutants into the surrounding countryside.

With afternoon temperatures in the upper 80s, we continued north to our destination, Maramures. – BGR & HSR

2006-09-01T11:52:00.000-05:00

With its abundant forests, roaming livestock, folk music, colorful folk costumes, magnificent wooden churches and carved gates, Maramures seems to remain untouched by the present. Villages exist where familes produce virtually everything they eat, use, and wear. There are places where medieval traditions and customs live with no regard for the world surrounding them. The people are friendly and possess a forward state of inquisitiveness in regard to you.

Wood, whether oak or pine, is a strong symbol of Maramures. The wooden gate greets you at the entrance of the community, the church and the family. At the entrance of a home, the gate's ornate carvings and size address the family's status and wealth. Our experience in this area situated in the northwestern corner of Romania was unique and unforgettable. - HSR & BGR

2006-08-30T09:00:00.000-05:00

In the morning, we walked to the Sucevita Monastery with its impressive red and green frescoes. In our opinion, it is one of the finest of the Bucovina monasteries. Oddly enough, the western wall is incomplete. Legend has it that the artist fell from the scaffolding and no other artist dared to complete it! The last one to have been built, Sucevita is credited to Ieremia Movila (one of the few Bucovina monasteries not to be built by Stefan cel Mare). But the real treasure is the hike up the hill behind the church’s graveyard to view the monastery. It was a rare moment being able to sit for more than an hour enjoying the valley and hillsides.

We headed north to Marginea known for its black earthenware and pottery. A workshop permits visitors to see potters in process and then make purchases at the adjoining shop. As always, we were happy to have the luggage to carry a few special treasures home!

Radauti was only a brief visit for us to capture our driver’s photograph with the statue of Prince Bogdan the Great! It is a market town near the Ukrainian border. It was one of the few towns where we saw store signs advertising second-hand clothing by the kilogram (so how many kilos of jeans would you like today?).

We backtracked on the past evening’s ride through Sucevita and Vatra Moldovitei on scenic 17A enroute south to Campulung Moldovenesc. Campulung Moldovenesc is a 14th century logging town set in the Moldova Valley at 621 meters.

Our challenge was the E576 road to Vatra Dornei with its 40 kilometers of extensive construction – taking us two hours! In the midst of our frustration, we recognized the intense labor of the men who were laying wire and moving concrete blocks with their backs, mixing and pouring concrete by hand, and moving ground and digging trenches with hand tools. This scene has been common across Romania – but most striking in this area, as the spring and early summer floods had devastated much of the aging infrastructure.

Finally, we arrived into the resort town of Vatra Dornei. Vatra Dornei is a popular skiing destination for Romanians and Ukrainians. It is home to Dorna, one of Romania’s largest mineral water bottling facility (and a personal favorite).

Enroute to Lake Izvorul Muntelui south on scenic 17B, we stopped roadside for a picnic of bread, cheeses, tuna, mackerel, pufuleti (the natural Romanian alternative to the cheese puffs), and Joes (delicious cappucino wafers). With mountains surrounding the 90 kilometers drive, we were happy to see the lake after surviving very poor quality road.

Enroute to Reghin on 15, we passed through Borsec, another mineral water bottling facility. Next was the logging and aged resort town of Toplita. The route was scenic with much variety of landscape from forests to mountains to creeks alongside small villages and farms. Yet it was very poor quality road with mixtures of gravel and asphalt. With the sun setting, we arrived into Reghin, home to Romania's popular Silva beer. Of particular note, Reghin is well known for its violin factory. It is located in the Gurghiu valley because of the abundance of flamed maple (very grainy curly sycamore). –BGR & HSR

2006-08-30T08:49:00.000-05:00

Founded in the 15th and 16th centuries, Southern Bucovina's painted monasteries are indeed masterpieces of historical art and architecture. (Note this region is really northern Moldova.) Considering that these exterior paintings are only 0.25 millimeters in thickness, they remain well preseved after more than 500 years! The Bzyantine style paintings (with a hint of mythology and local folk art) were for the faithful illiterate. Only exterior photographs are permitted with an additional photography and video tax.

Outside of Gura Humorului is the peaceful Humor Monastery known for its reddish brown color (as well as blues and greens). Unlike the other monasteries, it is surrounded by wooden walls and has no spire. It has a traditional Moldovan open porch which was the first to be built in Bucovina. The atmosphere is serene and the church's interior is spectacular. The tower with its steep, narrow stairs provides an excellent vantage point to take in the beautiful grounds.

Not far down the road is the Voronet Monastery – a sharp contrast to Humor with its swarming tourists and souvenir stands. Known as the "Sistine Chapel" of the East, its distinct blue hues and Last Judgment scenes are its main attraction. The weather has erased much of the frescoes on the north-facing wall. It was built by Moldovan prince, Stefan cel Mare (Stephen the Great) out of gratitude to God, then abandoned in the 18th century due to the Austrians. Since 1991, it has been inhabited by nuns.

North to Vatra Moldovitei, we arrive at the Moldovita Monastery known for its yellow colors and unique fortified quadrangular shape with impressive towers and gates. The original throne of King Petru Rares is housed in the museum onsite. We also noticed two other motorcyclists inquirying from one of the nuns of lodging in the area.

After the monastery visit, it's 7:30 p.m., again, and we are on a spectacular stretch of road through the mountains. We both open the motorcycle helmet visors to smell and feel the fresh, crisp air. The twisty road seems to be only for us with hardly any traffic. We simply enjoy every moment!

We arrive into Sucevita and search for lodging. We like Casa Andrea at the first drive-by, so decide to stop and inquire of availability. It was perfect – a locked garage for the motorcycle, balcony, king size bed (rare for Europe), and complete with a traditional dinner of trout and sour cream sauce with mamaliga (polenta) and cheese. Unfortunately, we were so hungry that we forgot to take a picture of this culinary delight! We spent the wee hours of the morning listening to the nearby creek, taking in the night sounds of the wildlife, and watching the stars.

Expect to pay between $20 - $50 Euros for lodging in the Bucovina area. It is well worth a week or two in one of Romania's treasures! – HSR & BGR

2006-08-30T08:33:00.000-05:00

Greeted by the morning sunshine (and a wallet), we were anxious to hit the road enroute to the famous painted monasteries of Bucovina to our north.

Our first visit was to nearby Targu Neamt (German Market) with its statue of Ion Creanga, house of Veronica Micle, and 14th century citadel. Creanga is considered one of Romania's greatest writers. A poet, Micle lived in Targu Neamt for 39 years and was the lover of Mihai Eminescu, considered Romania's greatest writer and poet (who incidentally, couldn't afford to marry her after her husband's death). The citadel (Cetatea Neamtului) is perched on the hillside overlooking the city and is considered one of Moldova's finest fortress ruins (if a ruin can be called that).

The next stop was the Neamt Monastery, the oldest monastery in Moldova. It is the largest male monastery with 70 monks and several seminar students (we caught more than one inspecting the motorcycle from every angle!). The monastery resembles a fortress with its high walls and one remaining tower. A large pavilion outside the monastery houses the blessed water which can be bottled and taken home.

Leaving the grounds, we met a friendly Austrian couple with their Toyota 4X4. They had inquired from several tourists who had the motorcycle with the US license plate and were waiting to talk with us. We exchanged our Romanian adventures, and found out that they had developed a love affair with the mountains and back-country roads of Romania. They were spending lots of weekends off-roading with their vehicle through the Romanian countryside, and were even leading 4x4 tours. In fact, they had organized a yearly 4x4 rally in the Carpathian mountains, drawing drivers from Austria and Germany for the event. If interested, check out their nice web site--www.superkarpata.com.

With good asphalt and beautiful weather, we headed north to Suceava. The highlight of our travel was the German motorcycle touring group we followed with their BMWs and Hondas (and even a scooter). It was a pleasure to see other riders!

At a first glance, Suceava could be overlooked with its apartment blocs and strange smell emitting from its factories. (On a sidenote, the apartment balcony windows are old train windows!) In the 1980s, the factory supposedly put out 20 tons of cellulose and fiber waste a day which caused respiratory and nervous disorders known as the Suceava Syndrome. Fortunately, filters have been installed to reduce the levels of pollution.

Its beautiful churches and lively center made us decide to stop for lunch on the terrace of Latino. For the brief time we spent eating at the restaurant, we both thought we were in San Francisco--the waiters were sharply dressed and pressed, wearing name tags (an oddity for Romania), displaying a high level of professionalism and conversing in at least two languages. We were impressed with the level of customer service while enjoying salads, pizza and pasta at our best restaurant dining experience in Romania (so far)! – BGR & HSR

2006-08-30T07:55:00.000-05:00

This is the real story of the missing wallet. A wallet containing my driver's license, contact information and ALL the money for our trip (several hundred dollars in USD and Romanian Lei). We were near Agapia, in the heart of northern Moldova, which was a good 8-10 hours away from our belongings and the rest of our money.

At 8:45 p.m., after we found lodging with the Toader family and were headed out the door for dinner, I discovered that my wallet was missing. I searched my motorcycle jacket pockets--and it has a lot of them, believe me. Nothing. Then I searched my motorcycle pants and my jeans. Nothing. Then I moved on to the bags, the tank bag, and the trunk. Nothing.

At this point, I realized that the last time I had handled the wallet was at the Rompetrol gas station that afternoon at 4:30 p.m. After that stop, we had also stopped at two monasteries. Where could I have lost the thing? I am very particular about the place I keep my wallet, especially when I travel. This was very unusual. At almost 9 p.m., I realized that we had to travel back to the gas station in order to attempt to locate the wallet.

We left our bags with our new hosts, mounted the bike and with the impending darkness rode those 98 horses to their capacity retracing our route back to the gas station in Piatra Neamt (40 kilometers south). Along the way, we remembered a couple of roadside stops we made for photography, so we checked those spots as well. Nothing.

When we got to the gas station, I talked with the manager on duty and told him my story. He was gracious enough to pull up the entire afternoon's video surveillance and review it. Sure enough, there we had been--rather odd to watch yourself on someone else's video monitor going about your business. We had gassed up. We had placed an order for the sandwiches. The cameras had even recorded our exit on the terrace where we had eaten. At this point, the surveillance system had a blind spot, and did not record our eating (somewhat comforting, I guess). But, it showed us leaving the premises all geared up. Nowhere along the way was there a hint of a falling wallet. They also assured me that no one working at the station had found a wallet. So, I likely lost it and someone probably found it. And with the stash of money in it, they would have long been gone. So, still nothing.

Depressed and exhausted, we returned at 11:45 p.m. to the quiet village of Agapia. I had made a few phone calls (thankfully, I still had the cell phone) and was promised an emergency postal money transfer in the morning. Thankful to have a bed, each other, and at least our passports, cell phone and motorcycle, we crashed for the night.

Yet, we clearly could not find sleep. Something did not make sense. I had a clear memory of the entire afternoon and evening -- of every stop and of the last moment I had the wallet. I even had a distinct memory of having taken the wallet at the gas station, after ordering the sandwiches, and placing it in my motorcycle jacket inner pocket. Why was it not there?

So we started recounting the events out loud. Well, we had stopped... we had gassed the bike... we had ordered the sandwiches... I had paid for them and walked over to the terrace... where I had placed the wallet in my motorcycle jacket...

At that exact moment, while laying in bed in the dark, we both realized that our motorcycle jackets were identical except for the size! And I had clearly not paid attention in whose jacket I had placed my wallet.

While the room was still dark, a little past midnight, we both bolted out of bed to inspect the pockets of my wife's jacket. EUREKA! There was the wallet tucked inside with all of its contents intact! Yes, if the wallet could only tell its story… it would have been laughing at us!

Actually, in its own way, the wallet was probably laughing at us. Here we had gone stir crazy, rode around the countryside in a frenzy, agitated gas station attendants into reviewing video footage, and basically wasted 3 good hours while the wallet was going for the same joyride in my wife's jacket, unable to say a thing or make a single noise--hey, fools, I'm here, can't you see?!?!?!

Yes, it was one of those life moments when you stop. Yes, you really stop--your thoughts, your movement, your rush for the next moment. And you just sit there.

After that, you ask yourself what was the lesson to be learned from this adventure. Clearly, check the jacket you place your wallet into to make sure it's your own. Next, realize that most events have a reason or a logic of their own. Sometimes, it is difficult to see the thread connecting the individual moments that make up an event because we're too busy with other thoughts, rushing here-to-there.

It is difficult to achieve, yet stopping, relaxing the mind, and letting go of our expectations, fears, and anxieties will likely yield a different perspective - one that might even reveal new threads of reality and new horizons. Or at the very least, it might reveal the unexpected location of a "missing" wallet. - BGR

2006-08-30T07:49:00.000-05:00

Enroute to Piatra Neamt, we passed numerous villages and rural countryside. In particular, the town of Bicaz was a dreary sight with its ugly concrete and asbestos plants.

Arriving into Piatra Neamt, we waded out the drenching rains at Rompetrol's HEI restaurant over two sandwiches. On a side note, Rompetrol has become our gas station of choice over the past four months for fill-ups, bathrooms, and sandwiches reminiscent of Subway! Piatra Neamt (German Rock) is a valley with hills surrounding it.

Since night was moving in, we decided to head north to Targu Neamt. Our first stop was at the Varatec Monastery (1785) where more than 600 nuns reside. The exterior resembled a villa with the interior closed and reminiscent of a botanical garden. A man sitting in his car outside the confines offered us lodging with no shower for 10 Euro!

Our next stop was at the Agapia din Vale Monastery where more than 400 nuns live. Surrounded by walls and a gate tower concealing the 17th century church and a lovely garden, the monastery is a pleasure to walk the grounds. We arrived for prayer time and heard a medley of pan pipes and bells.

We stopped at a pleasant house with a cazare sign out front to inquire about lodging. After a long day of riding and soaking in the sights, we were happy to meet the Toader family (and even happier at the price?!). – HSR & BGR

2006-08-29T11:14:00.000-05:00

Past Gheorgheni, a beautiful stretch of twisty, mountain road via the Bucin Mountain pass provides a nice introduction into Moldova. Moldova makes up the eastern part of Romania and is known for its medieval, fortified painted monasteries, gorges, village traditions, and unparallelled tranquil landscapes. The region is bordered by the Republic of Moldova to the east and Ukraine to the north.

Enroute to the famed Bicaz Gorges, our first stop was the Lacu Rosu. One of Romania's weirdest natural wonders with its protruding dead tree stumps, the Red Lake (1838) was formed when a landslide dammed the Bicaz River and flooded the valley. Legend has it that picnickers were killed from a slide and crushed to death (hence its name, "killer lake"). A resort developed in the 1970s and it remains a popular vacation spot today.

Part of the Hasmas-Bicaz Gorges National Park, the gorges are truly a spectacular sight with their 300-meter high limestone cliffs rising above the river and cutting through the mountains. It is amazing to consider the labor of carving a road through these gorges!

As motorcyclists, the real attraction was in carving the fantastic hairpins and mountain twists. As the "Zen and Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" book so aptly states, the opportunity to not have the car frame around this majestic image was indeed powerful. We were reminded visually of the immeasurable beauty of the natural wonders of the world and what a small element we are in the grand scheme of life.

It was back to reality with traffic and tour buses maneuvering the road, and tourists flocking to the souvenir stands lining the underneath rock crevices roadside.

We will soon have more pictures in our Bicaz Gorges Photo Gallery. – HSR & BGR

2006-08-29T11:06:00.000-05:00

Leaving Brasov, admittedly we were a bit depressed at riding through the industrial side of Brasov. Heading into Szekely Land with winds indicating a strong storm moving in, we simply rode to cover ground before nightfall and the drenching rains. But the beautiful sky, the expansive lands and the villages caught our attention causing us to stop and photograph. What a memorable evening ride with amazing panoramic views!

In Sfantu Gheorghe (Sepsiszentgyorgy), the highlight was a conversation with a Rompetrol worker who admired the motorcycle and inquired of our travels. Otherwise, the town is rather unappealing and dreary.

Onward to Tusnad (home to bottled Tusnad water) and then the resort, Baile Tusnad with its interesting town center. It was another moment to capture a moto-admirer from a distance!

Miercurea Ciuc (Csikszereda) is known as the coldest city in Romania (annual temperature 5.9 degree C). We laughed about such facts as we rode until we realized that we needed our long underwear that we had abandoned since summer had arrived! The capital of Szekely Land, Miercurea Ciuc has a more than 90 percent Hungarian population. With much concrete due to Ceausescu's systemisation plans, the city has one remaining original structure - the old yellow building, the National Bank of Romania. The city is home to the revered Romanian beer, Ciuc (pronounced chook).

Unable to locate suitable lodging, we headed west to Odorheiu Secuiesc on a breathtaking stretch of road. We have asked ourselves more than once, why it is that we always seem to locate the most amazing roads at 7:30 p.m. or in the drenching rain?! Again, rain moved in and prohibited photographing this wild and scenic portion of Szekely Land.

After riding through the mountains in the cold, drizzling rain and darkness encroaching, we finally located Pensiune Margerita in Odorheiu Secuiesc (approximately 20 Euros). Tucked away off the main road, we enjoyed the pleasant hostess and the small cozy room with a skylight. We walked about a half mile guided by moonlight (no streetlights and no flashlight) for pizza. We returned late and unable to awaken the hostess, we scaled the fence and called it a night!

Awakening to drizzling rain, we decided to stake out until 10 a.m. before hitting the road to Gheorgheni. Gheorgheni (Gyergyoszentmiklos) is known as the 'cold pole' because of its long winters. It is a break enroute to Bicaz, nestled between the Gurghiu Mountains and the Eastern Carpathians. – HSR & BGR

2006-08-28T07:33:00.000-05:00

King Carol I's summer residence, the Peles Castle took 39 years to complete its 160 rooms and 3500 square feet. More than 400 craftmen and thousands of laborers finished the castle only months before the king died. Ironically, it has not been lived in since his death in 1914.

Awaiting a guided tour (in groups of no more than 30), we wandered the landscaped grounds. Carol's wife and novelist, Elisabeta Carmen Silva rests on the grounds and is heavily guarded.

Unforunately, no photography is permitted on the brisk 30-minute guided tour of only 16 rooms. (Supposedly the stairs and floors are in poor condition not permitting access to the rest of the castle.) But after donning the required woolen slippers, we were little prepared for what was before our eyes! The Castle boasts highly detailed walnut carvings, European antiques, rich textiles, Murano glass chandeliers, elaborate furnishings in the Turkish smoking room, a Louis XIV room housing the theatre, and retractable oversized skylight over the Grand Hall with the Czech architect carved in wood and peering down from his perch on the massive column. With Rembrandt reproductions in the king's office, a secret escape passage in the library behind a stack of "books," a gallery of mirrors, the leather-clad dining room, fairytale images etched on stained glass windows in the poetry room, and 14 kinds of wood in the Council Room, we were both wandering awestruck! It was the first castle in Europe to have central heating and electricity.

During Ceausescu's time, the castle served as a private retreat for leading communists and statesmen from around the world. It is known that presidents Richard Nixon and Gerald Ford, Libyan leader Moamar Gaddafi and PLO leader Yasser Arafat were entertained here by Ceausescu.

Between 1947 and 1975, Peles Castle was not open to the public. Extensive renovations were completed in 1990.

Only a few meters away is the Pelisor Palace (1892). As it is known, Little Peles was built by King Carol for his nephew, Ferdinand and wife, Marie (who loathed Peles Castle and did not get along with Carol). The smaller palace was decorated in Marie's taste with an Art Nouveau style and furnishings imported from Vienna.

The nearby Folisor Hunting Lodge was built as the King's temporary residence while Peles was under construction. It also served as Ceausescu's private hunting lodge. Currently, the lodge is in the possession of the Romanian government and is closed to the public.

Our advice is to definitely arrive before 10 a.m. to secure parking and ensure no waiting lines for the guided tour. It will be a memorable visit - well worth the 5 USD (12 RON) – HSR & BGR

2006-08-28T07:28:00.000-05:00

The route 73A from Rasnov to Predeal is a scenic, winding 20-plus kilometers lined with tourists and campers, as well as picnickers and backpackers roadside. Connecting with E60, the main route from the capital, Bucharest to Brasov, the asphalt is good quality.

Offering views of the Prahova River and the magnificent Bucegi Mountains, the E60 route makes for a pleasant ride into Sinaia. To the north, Predeal (1033 meters) is Romania's highest skiing location and marks the entrance into Transylvania. To the south, enroute to Sinaia, we pass through the village of Azuga with its dusty streets and industrial structures. Next, we pass through the unspiring, heavy trafficked resort town of Busteni which is surrounded by the dynamic Caraiman and Costila mountain peaks.

We arrived into the town of Sinaia known as the Pearl of the Carpathians with the most popular ski resort and Romania's famous palace, the Peles Castle. The resort town is said to have earned its name from Mihai Cantacuzino who founded the Sinaia Monastery after his pilgrimage to Israel's Mt. Sinai in 1695. The monastery has two churches dating from the 17 th and 19th centuries, as well as a history museum exhibiting the first Romanian translation of the Bible (1688). – BGR& HSR

2006-08-18T08:27:00.000-05:00

The town of Zarnesti is at the base of the majestic, newly created Piatra Craiului National Park. Unfortunately, our exploration could not be documented with camera as rains persisted and the mud underneath promised no match for the motorcycle tires. But we did witness live gypsy folk music in the streets. With such natural beauty on the hillsides, it is no wonder this region is where much of the filming for Hollywood's Cold Mountain (2003) was completed.

Poiana Brasov (1030 meters) is a well-known and charming European ski village on the slopes of the Postavarul Massif in the southern Carpathians. Skiing is from December through March and in the summer, biking, hiking, and horseback riding. With newly constructed four- and five-star accomodations, restaurants, and souvenir stands, there seems to be no shortage of tourist opportunities.

We returned to Bran for pleasant accomodations at the Select Holiday Villas ( http://www.selectholiday.ro/). With such selection, there is a wide price range beginning at 20 Euros across the region. – HSR & BGR

2006-08-18T08:23:00.000-05:00

The village of Rasnov is only a few short kilometers away from Bran. With tall pines as a dramatic backdrop, the 13th century Rasnov Peasant Fortress provides spectacular views of the plains towards the Piatra Craiului mountains. Built by the Teutonic knights as a defense against the Tartar, and then Turkish invasions, Rasnov remained in use until 1850.

Wandering the well-preserved grounds and peering inside the passages, we could imagine life inside the walls. Restoration is in process throughout much of the ruins. The museum exhibits showcased a number of tools, weapons and household items. The 146-meter well was dug over 17 years by two Turkish prisoners who were promised freedom upon its completion.

A very pleasant afternoon exploring the ruins and taking in the panoramic views – well worth the USD 4 price of admission. – HSR & BGR

2006-08-18T08:19:00.000-05:00

Dedicated to our favorite (and only) hair stylist, we took your advice and visited a castle (or two!)...

We thought arriving at Bran Castle before 10 a.m. meant beating the eager tourists – were we ever surprised! Poised 60 meters atop a peak in the small town of Bran (Torzburg in German) is the so-called Dracula's Castle. Tourists' first and only taste of "rural" Romania is sparkling Bran with its freshly painted villas, manicured pensuines, and a good selection of restaurants and well stocked supermarket. Tour buses from Hungary, Germany, and Italy add to the congestion alongside backpackers and families.

Bran Castle was built in 1382 by the Saxons to defend the trade route, Bran Pass from the Turks. It was not built according to the legend, by the infamous 15 th century Wallachian prince, Vlad Tepes. His only possible connection is he might have spent a night or two at Bran fleeing the Turks or was imprisoned here, depending on your historical sources.

From 1920, Queen Maria of Romania (Queen Victoria's granddaughter and wife of Prince Ferdinand 1893) lived at the castle. It remained a royal summer residence until 1947 with the dethroning of King Michael. Today, the castle is in the process of being returned to its private owner (a surviving heir of the Queen) by the Romanian government. Its future visitor status remains unknown.

Included in Bran admission is the open-air ethnographic museum at the base of the castle. It showcases the peasant village structures and describes through exhibits the traditions of the Transylvanian region. In the town, the defensive wall remains can be seen which divided the regions of Wallachia and Transylvania. Also, Queen Maria's heart lies in a memorial tomb which has been carved into the mountains.

It is a magical visit wandering the castle's spiral stairways, exploring secret nooks and chambers, and peering from its balconies into the courtyard. But don't forget those required woolen slippers! Much of the furniture is original and was imported from Western Europe by Queen Marie. Our favorites were the carved four-poster bed, the fountain in the courtyard hiding secret underground passages, and the many stairs and passages connecting the castle's wings.

At USD 4 for the price of admission, enjoy a few hours dreaming of life in a castle! – HSR & BGR

2006-08-18T08:04:00.000-05:00

From Ramnicu Valcea, the road meanders through scenic valleys and around hills. The road quality is average, but the views make up for it.

Enroute to Curtea de Arges, we encountered a 20 kilometer detour due to the massive amounts of rains that were received in this region. The detour was pleasant for a short while. Then, abruptly, the pavement ended and we were riding on dirt and gravel, "enriched" with an abundance of potholes and hairpin turns. However, it provided excellent views of the countryside and a definite change of pace.

Curtea de Arges is home to the Princely Court built in the 14th century by Basarab I. The Episcopal Church was built in 16th century by Neagoe Basarab with marble and mosaic from Istanbul. The interior is richly decorated with vivid colors and gold leaf. The frescoes have survived the centuries well. The tombs of King Carol I and Ferdinand are inside. The admission of less than USD 1 was worth the visit inside the grounds.

Nearby Manole’s Well supposedly marks where the master stonemason fell after falling from the roof when Prince Neagoe took the scaffolding to keep him from building another structure. Legend has it that a spring gushed forth.

The industrial town of Campulung is a pass-through route to the Bucegi Mountains and the riches of Transylvania. Roadside is the Mateias Mausoleum which is a monument to the 2,000 Romanian troops who lost their lives in WW I . The climb to the top affords beautiful views and inside, fascinating mosaics depicting the soldiers as well as Romanian historical figures (even Vlad Tepes).

We passed several villages with wooden houses and porches, and roadside stands of homemade cheeses (a specialty in this region is pine-aroma and coaja which is wrapped in bark), smoked and dried sausages, milk and honey. In addition, the villages’ traditions of weaving and sheep farming are still alive.

The gorges and the 360 degree views of the Bucegi Mountains promises this to be one of the most spectacular rides in Romania. The Bridge of Dambovita passes between the Damboviciorei and Plaiu gorges to the north and the narrow Dambovitei gorges to the south. The village of Fundata sits at 1290 meters continuing enroute to the Bran Pass. The agro-tourism business makes finding accomodations easy with the villages of Moeciu de Jos and Sus and Simon offering a variety of pensuine and cazare (rooms).

We spent the evening at the Pensiune Jigorea in the village of Simon outside Bran. With a view of the mountains from the covered wooden terrace and 8 rooms, kitchen, and an outdoor grill, what more could you want? – BGR & HSR

2006-08-18T07:47:00.000-05:00

Leaving the medieval city of Sighisoara, we rode south through Saxon Land and a corridor filled with fortified churches. These unique fortifications are well worth a visit.

One of the best preserved ones is the church in Biertan. The 15th century church is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. It is the only fortified church which is open and holds regular monthly services. Two and a half rings of wall encircle the church connected with a covered staircase. The graves of the bishops can be seen in the Bishops’ Tower. The interior boasts a sacristy door with 19 locks and a bastion where legend has it that couples desiring divorce were shut inside. Supposedly, only one couple in 400 years went through with divorce after two weeks of seclusion! Admission was well worth the little more than USD 1.

Our next stop was the fortified church in Brateiu. As with most of the others, we marveled at the structure from the outside since the inside was closed.

In the industrial town of Medias, we stopped to visit a motorcycle dealer importing several used models. It was a pleasant stop, and one that revealed the growing motorcycle market in Romania. Greeted by a rocket at the town’s entrace, we also saw the home of Hermann Oberth (for details, see our Sighisoara post).

From Medias we continued on to Copsa Mica, once home to a filthy carbon plant which left the village’s animals, snow, laundry, and home exteriors black. In the 1990s, the plant closed after years of devastating health effects in the region. A metalwork factory remains, supposedly with European standard filters in place. The structures remaining highlight much of what we have witnessed of the remains of Communism decaying against the natural beauty.

This was a pleasant trip, highlighting rolling countryside, Saxon fortified churches and a past that is trying to reconcile the pressures of the present. - BGR & HSR

2006-08-16T11:54:00.000-05:00

Since we're in Transylvania, and since most people associate it with Dracula and vampires, we thought it appropriate to present (briefly) some historical details of the "real" Dracula. No, he was not a vampire. No, he likely did not suck anyone's blood. And no, he did not sign a fat contract with Hollywood bigwigs.

Vlad Tepes was born in 1430 (1431) in Sighisoara, where he lived for six years before his father, Vlad the Devil (son of Mircea the Old) and a knight of the Dragon’s Order, became ruler of Wallachia, January 10, 1436.

Tepes childhood was curtailed when, together with his father and younger brother, Radu the Beautiful, he was taken hostage by the Turks. The long periods of detention in the Ottomans prisons (1441-1444, 1446-1448) and the abuses he suffered left their marks on the future soveriegn’s psychological make-up.

In 1447, his father and elder brother, Mircea II were assassinated. Tepes first reign was short lived (October-November 1448). Lacking support, he had to give up the throne. During the following eight years, he travelled the region working to regain his throne.

In August 1456, he defended Vladislav II and punished him cruelly for having assassinated his father and brother. He became the ruling prince of Wallachia.

In 1459, he refused to pay the tribute to the Turks, who consequently attempted to eliminate him. They sent military corps on a punitive mission but all 4,000 janissaries comprising it were impaled. Subsequently, Mehmet II, leading the largest army of the period (150,000), crossed the Danube in May 1462. Tepes initiated a war of attrition culminating in a renowned night attack. The huge Ottoman army reached Targoviste, where they came across the unsightly forest of impaled janissaries. Terrified and famished, exposed to surprise attacks, the Turks retreated. In his turn, Tepes went to Transylvania to ask for help from Matthias Corvinus, who, for varied and complex reason, imprisoned cousin instead of supporting him.

In November 1476, the tables turned again for Tepes and with the help of Corvinus and Stephen the Great, he regained the throne. Two months later, however, he was assassinated.

Tepes (i.e. Dracula) owes his celebrity to the numerous and mostly disparaging anecdotes that have circulated since his own lifetime, which have turned his into one of the best known medieval characters. (Source: Editura Somava)

2006-08-11T10:21:00.000-05:00

Welcome to Sighisoara (Schassburg in German). Saxons settled Sighisoara in the 12th century with it becoming a crafts and trading center.

It had been 5 years since our driver had visited Sighisoara for the annual Medieval Festival. (The fest is usually the last weekend of July. We witnessed the noise and crowds of the festivities, as we were enroute south during that time. Happily, we had enjoyed a much quieter, reflective visit earlier in June and July.) The town is also enjoying somewhat of a renaissance with the recent local and German investments in the city—renovated residences, new hotels, and street side cafes.

The 14th century citadel is on the UNESCO World Heritage List with its remaining nine towers and two bastions. Its clock tower stands 64 meters tall. The fascinating 1648 clock with its revolving wooden carved figurines strikes the hour. The figurines represent the Saxon pantheon (Peace – olive branch; Justice – scales; Law – sword) and the executioner and drummer. Overhead are seven figures representing each day of the week. We were up close to the clock figurines and mechanisms with our visit to the History Museum. The museum not only has a spectacular view of the medieval city from its tower, but has a fascinating collection of furniture, pottery, medieval instruments and a scale replica of the city, which made for a worthwhile afternoon experience. Admission is a bit over US$1.50. There is also an exhibit highlighting one of the fathers of space travel, Hermann Oberth who spent his childhood years in Sighisoara.

The house of Vlad Tepes (1431) is now a restaurant and denoted as such with a sign which encourages at least a tourist photo opportunity. Apparently, he lived here until the age of four. There is also a Vlad Tepes statue a bit down the street.

More than 170 steps (1642), the Scholars’ Stairs lead to the Church on the Hill (1345). The Lutheran Church stands at 429 meters with a fascinating collection of wooden chests in restoration and an eerie crypt containing thirty bodies. For less than US$1, you have a guided introduction of the church by a local student.

The Saxon cemetery stands behind the church on the sloping hillside. The Goldmith’s Tower allows an up-close encounter with a well-preserved tower. The guilds were in existence until 1875.

The medieval city is certain to capture your heart with its worn cobblestone streets, sidewalk artists, terraces, pastry shops (Brutarie Eldi anyone?), old churches, and museums as well as providing marvelous opportunities for people watching. – HSR & BGR

2006-08-10T14:18:00.000-05:00

The road from Brasov to Sighisoara (Schassburg) is a real delight for the moto enthusiast with its high quality asphalt, high-speed sweepers and tight hairpins twisting through the forests and the villages. Several roadside spots permit great picnicking and even a spring for washing our fresh apricots from the market!

Saxon fortified churches are nestled in the heart of almost every village. The distinct church steeple can be seen with the remains of its towering defensive walls (often an inner and outer wall can be seen). The churches were initially reinforced to provide refuge from the Tartars. The addition of the walls and towers were to build a defense against the Turks. Each one is different reflecting the diversity of the communities in which the people reside.

Approaching Sighisoara, we stopped to wander the remains of a fortified church in Saschiz. We photographed the hillside ruins in Rupea which were another striking sight.

We arrived into the medieval city of Sighisoara just as the sun was setting to locate lodging in the heart of the citadel with the Coroian family. Truly one of our most luxurious accomodations, sleeping in a 500-year old home with a 100-year old bed. By night, Teo Coroian is an IT engineer at a local cheese factory. By day, he runs Teo’s Distillery. He married into a family that had a long tradition of distilling plum, apple and pear and aging them into fine brandies and fruit wines. Teo credits his wife’s father with teaching him the secrets passed down through three generations. In addition to recently opening three guestrooms on-site, he is renovating a cellar to expand his business. For more information, we recommend your visit to http://www.delateo.com/

Sighisoara is a real treat. It has become one of Romania’s premier attractions. As a result, the prices have adjusted upward as well—in the 50-80 Euros ($60-100) per night. The charm of sleeping in the citadel and being only a stone’s throw from the birthplace of Vlad Tepes is priceless (and yes, for all of the rest of the souvenirs in the citadel, there is Mastercard!).

We enjoyed the view of the sun setting behind the citadel’s tower from the terrace of our favorite restaurant, Quattro Amici. Our waiter, Marius with his pocket PC ready to take the order, certainly ensured our return visit each evening with an excellent selection of pizzas and pastas complemented with your choice of Romanian beer or wine!

Good lodging, good food, good company, and walks through the medieval city ensure this city’s bid as being the most romantic city in Romania! Then again, perhaps any medieval city is magical when witnessed for the first time in the evening light. – BGR & HSR

2006-08-10T14:03:00.000-05:00

There is no better place to spend a quiet, late Sunday afternoon then in the Saxon town of Prejmer (Tartlau in German). The town is only 20 minutes north of Brasov, and a real gem. Coming here you might really think that time does indeed stand still.

The Prejmer 15th century citadel is one of the most impressive fortifications. Its outer defensive wall is the thickest of the remaining Saxon structures - almost five meters (over 15 feet)! With more than 270 remarkably well preserved rooms on four levels, Prejmer was built to house the entire community in the event of siege. Each door was numbered and had a different pattern on the outside (hearts, cross, stars, circles, etc.) representing the family who would reside there.

We imagined peering down the shoot to the enemy below and hurling pitch on his head! We imagined the use of the “outhouse” to ensure that fecal matter was not inside the dwelling for health and to avoid disease. We imagined families storing their food and supplies in the attics above the rooms.

Normally the citadel is closed on Sundays, but to our delight, the Gothic Evangelical church was hosting a small children’s choir. We enjoyed an hour-long concert echoing through the walls as we wandered exploring along the top of the outer defensive wall! An hour of amazing discovery, imagination, and photographing light (special thoughts go to our Boston friends who would have loved to be photographing with us).

With evening approaching, we scurried off to explore the neighboring Saxon village of Harman (Honiburg in German) with its 16th century citadel. Although it was closed for the evening, the keeper opened the door at 7:30 p.m. allowing us to photograph and enjoy the grounds. Smaller than Prejmer, it houses a 15th century church with a 52 meter high clock tower.

The entire region between Brasov, Sibiu, Sighisoara, Medias and Aiud is filled with these wonderful Saxon fortified churches. Some of them are well preserved, others are being restored. The experience is unforgettable. These are places where time seems to lose its meaning, and where you do not have to try hard to imagine life centuries ago. And in the stillness of a 600-year old church, or in the soft sunlight of a 500-year old fortification’s yard, you realize that in spite of much historical, cultural and technological change, the human spirit is the same now as it was centuries ago. - BGR & HSR

2006-08-10T03:33:00.000-05:00

It is not difficult to see why Brasov has become “Little Prague” and is the second most visited Romanian destination. The town has preserved its medieval architecture well and Mount Tampa, looming over the city, provides spectacular views. The pleasant Piata Sfatului welcomes tourists with trendy cafes and hours of people watching. Pedestrian-only Strada Republicii with its bakeries, terraces, and boutiques adds to the old meets modern.

With a day of wandering, food was one of our fun experiences. We enjoyed excellent crepes at La Republique and Italian Pizza at Pizza Roma. My wife’s incessant quest for pastries led us to the orange-colored pastry chain, Fornetti with its ultra-cheap, but utterly delicious nuggets filled with cheeses, chocolate, and jams. Our visit to the market presented fresh apricots for an afternoon snack!

We spent the evening in Brasov at Pensiunea Ovesea with its magnificent views of the town. Only ten minutes from the downtown, the Pensiune was cheerfully decorated and our hosts gracious and appreciative of our positive reviews of their one-year-old property. The Brasov area has a well-developed tourism infrastructure, and it is flush with tourists. As a result, prices here tend to be considerably higher than in the rest of Romania. Yet, you can still find nice lodging at good prices (around 35 Euros—$40-$45).

The Tampa cable car is a definite ride to view the Saxon fortified city below. The 15th century wall remains (once 12 meters high, 3 kilometers long) are a reminder of the protection against the Turks. The Black Tower and the White Tower are also visible.

The largest Gothic church between Vienna and Istanbul, the magnificent Black Church dominates the city’s center. The church was built between 1383 and 1477 with its name coming from a fire in the late 1600s. It remains in use by German Lutherans today. No photographs were permitted inside. The church boasts an impressive collection of more than 100 Turkish rugs collected over the years. With its 4000 pipes, the organ (1839) was built by Buchholz of Berlin. Another interesting detail were the wooden slats covering the water drain in the floor – visitors drop coins through as an offering.

It is not difficult to imagine the past of this major medieval trading center with its Saxon ornate edifices. Modern day celebrates fashion and fusion with backpackers, tourists and residents. – BGR & HSR

2006-08-09T09:53:00.000-05:00

Sibiu (Hermannstadt in German) has the honor of co-chairing as the European Cultural Capital in 2007, alongside Luxembourg. With such an honor and the anticipation of tourists, the city is undergoing massive renovation and construction on every corner. Yet, in the old town, in Piata Mare, Piata Mica and Piata Huet you’ll find charming old buildings and churches as well as trendy boutiques, bookstores, and café terraces. There are plenty of cobblestone streets and alleyways to stroll that also provide great vantage points for people-watching – don’t be surprised if you smile, and the smile is returned to you! In such a friendly city, we decided to enjoy the evening on the terrace of La Piazzetta. We even heard the familiar sounds of motorcycles and saw the riders meet after completing their day’s ride.

With the lodging sticker-price shock ($100 plus) in Sibiu, we decided to head to Marginimea Sibiului and the village of Gura Riului. We called ahead for lodging based on a guidebook’s recommendation. The host had agreed to meet us in the town square. It was about 10 p.m. when we arrived and the town square was fairly quiet except for a few people wandering about and a few horse-drawn logging carts taking a break. Moreover, there were but a couple of street lights to scatter the darkness away. I was beginning to reconsider my rider’s idea of staying in a “quaint” villages. To which my spouse comfortingly said, “But the travel guide says it’s dreamy and there are buffaloes!” Our host, Dumitru Campean showed up in his car. He was a gregarious man who enjoyed a good laughter and who, clearly, never met a stranger. We followed him along the bumpy, gravel side-street to his residence. While his wife finished preparing our room, Dumitru insisted we taste his homemade visinata because it would “aid digestion and encourage sleep.” After a long day’s ride, we didn’t need any help with sleeping. With the clear night sky, brilliant stars and fresh mountain air, we certainly enjoyed another blissful evening in rural Romania.

While we did not see any buffaloes, we were awakened to the melodical sound of roosters and horse-drawn carts. A fresh breakfast of eggs, sausages, cheeses, bread, and tea greeted us under the gazebo sending us on our way to enjoy another day. The Campean house is a great place to spend a night, a weekend, or even a week if you’re in the Sibiu area.

As we headed out, towards Brasov, we passed through the towns of Orlat and Cristian, the latter possessing an impressive 14-century fortified church.

The road between Sibiu and Brasov is a pleasant ride, that parallels the impressive Fagaras Mountains. The asphalt is of good quality, and the road provides an enjoyable mix of fast sweepers, tight turns and some really great straight stretches. Of course, it helps paying attention to the police radar in these sections. Thankfully, Romanian police only use stationary radar, so generally you’ll receive advance notice from drivers coming at you and flashing their high beams—it’s a clear sign that there’s radar ahead. Aside from that, we were able to take in the scenery as the day was sunny and pleasant. Did we mention the asphalt was good? (he he he) Compared to some other places we’ve wandered, this was fantastic. But then again, if all roads were this way, Romania would not be the adventure it is! – BGR & HSR

2006-08-08T13:51:00.000-05:00

According to documentation, Transylvania was first referred to in a 1075 AD document as Ultra silvam, translating to "beyond the forest". The name was later changed to "Transilvania", which has the same meaning. In German, the area is known by the appelation Siebenbürgen—meaning "seven cities." This name was given based on the seven main Saxon cities built in the region. In Hungarian, the area is known by the name Erdély, which comes from Erdő-elve, also meaning "beyond the forest." For more information, visit Wikipedia.com (not the most authoritative source on the subject, but certainly a quick, fairly accurate and convenient one)..

Our journey into the heart of Saxon Land (Siebenburgen) provided breathtaking views and surprising roads as well as challenging weather and pleasant surprises. From peaceful sunrises in villages to beautiful sunsets in charming medieval cities, from Saxon fortified churches to fairly well-preserved ruins, and to sometimes-shocking lodging sticker prices. Join us for our adventures! – BGR & HSR

2006-08-03T13:35:00.000-05:00

As you may notice from the gap in posting dates, we’ve been busy. The past couple of weeks have been spent on the road, documenting, photographing, experiencing, and trying to make sense of it all. And as we close the fourth month of exploring Romania, the passing of the seasons is something that we’ve acutely felt. The change has been most noticeable to me in our encounters with the storks.

Everywhere we ride, but particularly in villages, electricity poles, and even house chimneys provide shelter for stork families. We watched them initially with excitement in early Spring, when the male and female were busy building their nests with branches, sprigs and hay collected from fields and forests.

We noticed them again and again as we criss-crossed the country, either perched up on their nests, or foraging for food in marshes and fields. As time passed, we rejoiced in seeing their young peek over the nest to observe the world around them. We also saw them eagerly awaiting much-needed food.

More recently, the sight has changed—now, as we look up at the nests, we notice three or four storks, and by their size alone, we can no longer tell which are the adults and which are the young ones.

This week, in a moment of sheer beauty, we passed by an open field in Transylvania, only to watch the ethereal, fluid flight circles of four storks. They were flying in circles, mostly gliding upward on air currents, then descending, still circularly, only to regain altitude. It became immediately clear that the adult storks were giving flying lessons to the young, teaching them how to climb using warm air currents, how to glide and conserve energy—all the techniques they learned from their parents.

There was something utterly beautiful in the way they were flying—smooth, circular, almost effortless lines. And the realization that these were special moments between the young storks and their parents—moments when knowledge, experience and love were shared and passed-on—created an equally beautiful feeling inside me. And, suddenly, even though I was observing the scene from a rumbling, speeding motorcycle, I felt a sense of stillness, quietness and a pause in time. For a few brief seconds, I almost transcended the flow of time and distance, and wanted to lift and start gliding upward in smooth, flowing lines. Well, the reality of hard pavement whizzing by at high speed is no match for any kind of transcendental meditation. So I refocused my gaze on the task at hand. But, I allowed that inner feeling to linger…

Here were graceful creatures who travel with the seasons. They fly north toward Romania in the Spring, create life, feed, nurture and protect it, teach it how to fly on its own, and then, when Fall comes, they move south, toward warmer places. The space in-between is filled with seemingly mundane tasks. Yet, it’s those mundane tasks that give meaning to their existence, just as our lives oftentimes find meaning in the simple moments. It is interesting that our lives tend to be summarized, from history’s perspective, in one dash—the dash between our year of birth and our year of death. It’s a short dash, a simple line, a mere symbol adopted to represent the mundane activities that make up our lives, and which, for most of us, will never make the headlines or the history books.

As I watched the storks fly, round and round, higher and then lower, it dawned on me that these creatures were neither building mansions, companies or empires, nor were they conquering new territories or changing history. They were simply doing what they’ve done for millennia—flying. — BGR

2006-08-03T12:18:00.000-05:00

Each moment of the year has its own beauty. - Ralph Waldo Emerson

A season has come and escaped… The storks we first photographed in the spring have grown up and are beginning to fly. In the nest, it is difficult to separate the parents from their offspring! Although, I have seen these creatures many times over the past four months, they still remain of interest with their grace and beauty.

They remind me that I too have changed with this journey. Many of the changes will only be recognizable when I return to the States, with weeks passing in reflection. Others I feel everyday. Celebrate every moment. Give of your spirit. Work through the pain of the unknown to find the perspective. Share your resources. Laugh. Love. Live.

I too am beginning to fly… I cannot tell you yet my perspectives… - HSR

2006-07-24T12:55:00.000-05:00

Oradea - Satu Mare - Zalau - Cluj-Napoca - Huedin

Paralleling the Hungarian border with continuous views of the Romanian plains, the road from Oradea to Satu Mare proved an uneventful ride. In addition, the poor quality road made the trip seem even longer than the 130 kilometers (about 80 miles) shown on the map.

Although this route is a national highway connecting the Banat region with Maramures, we were not surprised to again see horse-drawn carts. Over the past few months, this has been an interesting experience. Romania is truly a country of contrasts. On one hand, the past is very much alive in the customs, habits and daily realities, such as horse-drawn carts--people use them here as you would use a pick-up truck to haul things or people. On the other hand, the fast-paced 21st century life is pushing for space on the very same dimension--commercial trucks blowing by constantly (and if you think that 18-wheelers feel big on an interstate, imagine them on nothing but two-lane narrow roads), delivery vans with always-impatient drivers seemingly racing one another, and overtly smug businessmen in their Porsche Cayennes, Mercedes, or BMWs flashing headlights, honking horns, and generally buying into the marketing of their overpriced cars which tells them that they "own the road."

Satu Mare was our first glimpse of Maramures. With the crossing of the Somes River, we began exploring the town. Based on what a travel book described as “the ugliest town in all of Romania,” we were sure that the town would not be worthy of our visit. After an initial glance on the outskirts of town, we were almost ready to write off the center, yet decided to check for ourselves this statement. As it turned out, the downtown area was fairly charming and pleasant. As a matter of fact, we have seen towns in Romania that would be much better candidates for the ‘ugliest town’ moniker. We now suspect that perhaps the writers of the misleading book (which shall remain unnamed for now) didn’t really visit this town or had a particular bone to pick with it. The Hotel Dacia was the former city hall and royal court. Much of the activity of Satu Mare is centered around the Piata Libertatii with the Hungarian Reformed, Orthodox and Roman Catholic Churches as well as the Great Synagogue nearby.

Enroute to Zalau, we took a narrow, steep hill off the main highway to the Mihai Viteazu monument. This monument celebrates the prince’s successful unification of the three historical provinces—Transylvania, Wallachia and Moldova—into one nation, albeit for a very short time, as he literally lost his head at the hands of enemies. The monument was erected in 1976, in the blocky and somewhat uninspiring style of communist monuments.

The impressive thing about it is its location—up on a hill, high above the surrounding valleys, visible for miles and miles in all directions. Equally striking were the wild horses grazing near the monument and the two herdsmen. Needless to say, the views were breathtaking and worth the awkward climb up a narrow one-lane road.

Arriving into Zalau, we were greeted with congestion and blocks at every corner. In its current format, the town is a far cry from its origins as the first documented Transylvanian town, also known in antiquity as a Roman-Dacian military and cultural stronghold.

On the outskirts of Zalau toward the ascent into the mountains, we captured a surge of new home construction. But more importantly, the road provided a surprise - excellent hairpin turns! We were not surprised to encounter a handful of sport bikes thoroughly enjoying the road weaving through the Meses Mountains into Cluj-Napoca!

With a bustling center, Cluj-Napoca has a vibrant personality and energy with its trendy coffee shops, swanky bars and up-to-the-minute Euro fashion on the streets. Cluj is as much Hungarian (Kolozsvar) as Romanian. In the 1970s, Ceausescu added Napoca to the city’s name to signify its Daco-Roman roots. However, most people refer to the city as Cluj. It is home to the popular Romanian beer, Ursus.

One of the premier examples of Gothic architecture in Romania is the 14th century St. Michael’s Church in Cluj’s Piata Unirii. Nearby is ths statue of Matthias Corvinus (1902) who was the king of Hungary from 1458 to 1490.

Our evening ride back into Oradea was a pleasant ride with amazing roads and plenty of hairpin curves to complete the day. With the sun setting, we passed through the villages of Huedin, Ciucea and Negreni, experiencing the transforming beauty of rural Romania.

Huedin is the main area to start exploring the nearby natural wonders—mountains, caves, and waterfalls. Ciucea is a place dear to Romanians and Hungarians, as it was home to Romanian poet and politician, Octavian Goga and Hungarian poet, Ady Endre. Negreni claims to boast a fabulous Saturday fleamarket.

After another long riding day, we were happily greeted by the children of Caminul Felix Villages eagerly wanting to hear all about our day’s adventures as well as a bed at the Noble House Hotel and even dinner leftovers! – BGR & HSR

2006-07-24T07:39:00.000-05:00

The small village of Pecica in western Romania hosted a three-day motorcycle rally—Moto Rock 2006—during June 30-July 2. The event celebrated its second anniversary much the same way it did last year at its inaugural session—with rain and cool weather. As we spoke with the event organizer, a colorful character with a real passion for motorcycles, he complained that last year they had three days of rain, which drenched the riders and their tents. He was concerned that this year’s looming thunderstorms and temperatures in the 60s (Fahrenheit) were going to deal the event a hard-to-overcome blow.

Sure enough, the event was marked by thunderstorms and rain, yet the spirit of the participants was fairly high. And the nightly rock concerts coupled with impromptu amateur stunt shows kept the heat and adrenaline going. The Romanian motorcycle market is in its growing stage—it has a long list of fans with thinly lined pockets. So, the showing at Pecica provided an interesting smorgasbord of mounts.

Yet, despite the rains and current economic conditions, Romanians have the motorcycle bug. Every week we meet young and old(er) folks alike who talk about their plans to acquire a motorcycle. And encouragingly, a lot of women are also pursuing their interest by taking riding courses and perusing the used market listings, while saving up for that shiny new bike they eyed at a show or in a magazine. - BGR

2006-07-24T06:30:00.000-05:00

With the avian flu becoming an ever-present domestic concern for the US, I thought I would share our experience in Romania. The country had a couple of outbreaks of flu among its poultry earlier this year in the Danube Delta region and the Brasov area. The flu led to the destruction of millions of birds (chicken, geese, ducks), and to the quarantine of a couple of villages.

Aside from that, the Romanian government, prodded by intense international pressure and scrutiny, decided it was going one step further. It decided to create road blocks where it would spray all incoming and outgoing traffic with a 360-degree antiviral sprayer. Which, in theory, perhaps it made some sense to the stuffy bureaucrats in Bucharest. In practice, however, it didn't quite materialize as planned, nor was it particularly effective. The only thing it did for us, however, was cause a great deal of frustration and annoyance. We encountered the filters on our way to Brasov. About 40-50 miles outside the city they were posted--one in the going lane, and the other in the oncoming lane, but about 500 yards away.

We went through the first spray filter simply because we were motioned through. We did not activate the sprayer since it was weight activated. The experience was unsettling, nonetheless, especially because the road through the filter was lined with a regular carpet that, soaked with the soapy water they were using, was extremely slippery, and almost caused a bike drop. The second filter we slowly made our way through, once again unsprayed. By the nuclear-looking suits of the attendants, I thought, this must be some serious stuff they're handling over here.

At the third filter, we had the misfortune of being behind a car which drove on the pressure plates that activated the spray mechanism, but then gunned the vehicle and rode through untouched by the miserable concoction. We, on the other hand, got drenched with it, while the workers were screaming all kinds of things, most of which resembled a bunch of "No, no, no, no!!!" On top of that, I had to balance the bike on the slippery carpet meant to rub the tires for another 30-40 yards with this stuff. This absolutely sent me over the edge!

And to add insult to injury, at the next filter, as we approached, one of the workers walked into the road to motion us into the other lane--motorcycles should go around the filters, he said! Aahhh..... so I should have been notified all along that I need to go around, but at the other filters the workers reckoned, "Why bother? Let the fool go through."

Consequently, for the rest of the day, we drove around every single spray filter. Yet, I still could not get over getting sprayed, completely unneccessarily. Which of course, brought the question--what purpose were those filters fulfilling?

Discussing the matter later with several Romanians, it turned out that some of the solutions used at the filters had been independently tested by third-party organizations, and were found to be no more than weak, soapy, water, with some trace of anti-viral solution. Furthermore, the sprayers were only spraying the outside of vehicles and trucks. Which meant that if you had a trunk-load of dead chicken, you simply drove through and went on your merry way. And sure enough, a week after our trip, they discovered a whole batch of suspect, infected chicken which had been distributed to groceries. Romanians in general, were taking a rather laid-back-but-amuzed attitude, blaming the whole thing on the European Union. They were saying that since Romania is due to join the EU next January, the Union was trying to drive the independent producers out of the market, to better sell other members' chicken in Romania. With a sad tinge in their voice, they were saying--"Welcome to the centrally-planned economy that the communists couldn't pull off, but which the European Union is forcing down our throats!!!"

So, for all intents and purposes, the Romanian government had taken action. Poultry had been killed and vehicles were being sprayed. Say Hello to Bruxelles and Vote for us in the next election! - BGR

2006-07-24T05:41:00.000-05:00

Oradea (Nagyvarad in Hungarian) with its proximity to Hungary and the Apuseni Mountains, offers a pleasant downtown for walking and wandering. The area has been a second home base for us over the past few months with our volunteer work at the Caminul Felix Villages.

In the center of Piata Unirii, the Prince of Wallachia, Mihai Viteazul (1593-1601) is memorialized with a statue. He was the first prince who unified the three historical provinces that make-up today's Romania. The Black Vulture (Vulturul Negru) building (1908) houses shopping and a hotel towering over the Crisul Repede River.

The Orthodox Moon Church (1764) is unique for its tower mechanism which changes position with the moon’s movements.

A few kilometers outside of Oradea is the bustling spa resort of Baile Felix. Baile Felix is known for its thermal pools drawing Romanians and foreigners year round. In addition to the large ominous hotels peering over the valley, there are several new properties in construction with their brillant colors.

Continuing enroute to Beius, the road quality required much attention due to large potholes yet provided excellent views with the mountains beckoning us to continue onward.

The market town of Beius provides the access to the Meziad Cave. Discovered in 1859, the Cave is known for its enormous stalactites.

Intermittent violent summer storms prohibited us from filming and photographing a good portion of the mountain road leading to Brad. We did however spot the production plant for one of the Romanian beers, Bergenbier, on the outskirts of Beius. Being on a motorcycle, we enjoyed the available legal alternative—water… with nice company, nonetheless - goats.

Our spectacular views of the Apuseni Mountains were abbreviated with the approach of lightning and rains. We did enjoy a brief moment roadside to photograph and don our full rain gear. The charming villages of Varfurile and Halmagiu captured the essence of this region – peaceful and serene, seemingly from another time.

Arriving into the village of Brad on the heels of yet another rain shower, we passed quickly through. We continued enroute to Deva and onward enroute to Lugoj through the countryside.

During a roadside break, we met a man who shared of his motorcycle riding days. He had owned a MZ motorcycle back in the 1960s, and spent quite a while touring the sights of Romania. He said that he used to work for the Romanian Railroad Company, and through his job, he visited every corner of the country, yet never ventured outside its borders. Currently, he was herding cows and enjoying his retirement. He mentioned that the V-Strom was clearly a large bike, and wondered how it handled. It's interesting meeting people across Romania who have old motorcycles, or old stories of motorcycling. Their passion is still present in their eyes, and their voice betrays the longing for an activity that their age may be the only limit to.

Perhaps our most amusing sight was in the town of Faget. We were greeted roadside by a large, red airplane with the Coca Cola logo emblazoned on its side! It was an inviting terrace!

Amused and exhausted after a long day’s ride, we rode into the sunset with a stop for LaTino’s pizza in Timisoara. With a number of pizzas tasted across Romania as well as the States, we rate LaTino’s a 9! – BGR & HSR

2006-07-24T04:56:00.000-05:00

Over the past few weeks we spent some time traveling in Szekely Land (Secuime). With more than 90% of this Transylvanian region living and communicating in Hungarian, it is difficult for foreign travelers to make sense of the language, particularly since it is not related to any of the main European languages (its closest, albeit quite distant, relative is Finnish). The village and town signs are in both Romanian and Hungarian. However, most people in stores and restaurants greet you in Hungarian.

Arriving into Odorheiu Secuiesc (Szekelyudvarhely), we felt the bustle of a growing town, due in large part to the redevelopment of textiles, furniture, and leather companies. The 16th century citadel is almost fully intact allowing visitors to wander within its walls. Interestingly too, Odorheiu Secuiesc has two Greco-Catholic, three Hungarian Reformed, two Orthodox, and four Roman Catholic churches!

The small village of Corund (Korond) displays its well-known green, brown, and cobalt-blue pottery. While we certainly enjoy the Corund pottery, we were very disappointed with the village. Covered from entry to exit with dusty, cramped, roadside kiosks similar to those found all over the rest of Romania, Corund was merely overrun with tourists, tour buses, high prices, and, at times, questionable quality merchandise. While we had looked forward to seeing the town where the pottery is made, the trip was not worth the effort and expense.

Praid is known for its therapeutic salt mines. One hundred twenty meters below the surface, the legendary mines are known for the benefits they provide for respiratory ailments. While looking for the entrance to the mines, we followed a sign leading us down a dirt road. About 2 kilometers down this road, we were chased by guard dogs and kids, who clearly had not seen such a sight in a long while. And along with the guard dogs, we encountered two serious looking guys bearing black T-shirts emblazoned with SECURITY. Oooops!!!!! Is the tourist business so in demand here??? Is there a mine dance club with VIPs near here??? Oh, no, not quite--we had arrived at the old commercial mines, which were still owned by a company and ergo guarded. Hmm... I guess no salt treatments here, then....

Targu Mures (Marasvasarhely) developed as a cultural and academic center in the 14th century. It remains a vibrant city with its medical and theatre schools nationally renowned. Under Ceausescu, all ethnic groups other than Romanians were forbidden to live here. In fact, Romanians from other parts of the country were moved in to influence the Hungarian presence!

Lined with Secession-style buildings, Targu Mures was a pleasant stop. The early 20th century Palace of Culture is eye catching with its steeple roofs, tiled with colorful geometric patterns. (Perhaps not quite coincidental, since the city boasts father and son mathematicians, Farkas and Janos Bolyai, revolutionaries of Euclidean geometry.) The Palace houses the history and art museums, as well as the stained glass window museum. There is also a concert hall boasting an organ with over 4500 pipes! The building next-door, the Prefecture cannot be missed with its bright green spire and tiled roof.

Rains, thunder and lightning were moving in and sent us back to Sighisoara for the evening. We found lodging with a family in the citadel and had a wonderful conversation with a British traveler visiting Romania by train. Exchanging stories of his train experiences and our motorcycle adventures until 2 a.m. was much fun! – BGR & HSR

2006-07-23T12:35:00.000-05:00

Summer is wedding season. Beautiful dresses grace storefront windows. Friends are scurrying about coordinating the last minute details from flowers to photography to reception menus.

When wedding day arrives, the cars are adorned with flowers and decorated with ribbons. The wedding party parades through the city streets with horns honking.

Out for a Saturday evening walk, we heard traditional Romanian instrumental music on the street and saw the bride proceed into the church. We captured the vehicle of choice for the bride and groom’s escape.

Photographers and the happy couple take advantage of the historic sights in Romania at the fortress in Rasnov.

In Szeged, Hungary on a quiet street, we captured another couple enroute to their photography session.

Love is in the air! - HSR

2006-07-23T12:12:00.000-05:00

Summer is in full bloom in Romania and Hungary. Geraniums and begonias are plentiful in the window boxes. Roses and blossoming trees are abundant in the parks. Vibrant perennials and organic vegetables are bursting in the gardens.

Photographed in Szeged, Hungary, the black-eyed susans are lovingly dedicated to my Mom.

The iris patch was photographed in a small village outside Baile Felix, Romania - a pleasant reminder of my graduate school days at Peabody College of Vanderbilt University.

The Romanian plains are ablaze with the color yellow! The sunflower patches remind me of our bright yellow Adirondack chairs and evenings spent with friends celebrating cuisine and conversation in the States.

Friends, enjoy this beautiful splash of color! – HSR

2006-07-23T11:38:00.000-05:00

The market is a special place in Romania. The smells and sights of fresh fruits, vegetables, flowers, cheeses, breads, and meats endears any American who remembers only the picked-green, impersonal, mega-grocery stores of America.

Watermelons (lubenita). Blueberries (afine). Apricots (caise). Cherries (visine). Tomatoes (rosii). Cucumbers (castraveti). Cabbage (verze).

Every city, village and town has a market. It is a place of commerce. It is a place to observe personalities and communication. It is the heart and the soul of the region.

“Poftim. Poftim.” (Please. Please) When you enter the market, vendors begin “selling” their goods. If you touch their products, almost immediately a bag is produced and you have more than likely committed to taking the items with you. Depending on the quantity, the hour of the day or the relationship, negotiation may even be a part of the transaction.

The market is a reminder food is still natural. It is a reminder of the person who labors the land to produce a quality taste experience for the customer. It is a reality of a day fleeting around the globe in an attempt to standardize processes and boost economies - as we ignore the health of our bodies. – HSR

2006-07-21T07:32:00.000-05:00

We wanted to share the full story of the volunteer we met who was making his 21st trip to Caminul Felix Villages.

Joe Babb is not your typical 76-year-old. This is his 21st trip to Caminul Felix. This year alone, he will make three trips to Oradea . His eyes dance when he says that "every time I come, it feels like I come home.[I] never have done anything in my life that I enjoy more."

Miles from his hometown of San Jose, California and his plumbing and heating business, Babb recounts with much emotion his first trip to Caminul Felix Village Two in July 2000. Their team of 58 built the Calvary House in nine days. He shared the story of their pastor, Fred Wilson and the team going in each room and praying for the salvation of each of the children who would grow up here.

He said, "When I was asked by friends to do the plumbing and heating for the Caminul Felix trip, I said I didn't have time. After prayer, a few days later, I called back and said I would join their team. Seven team members came and talked about Caminul Felix and the build in my family room. I later learned that they had a prayer circle praying for a plumber on the team. Unless they had a plumber, they would not have been able to finish the Calvary House."

This would be only his first interaction with Caminul Felix. Over the coming years, he assisted with converting Caminul Felix Village Two from propane to natural gas. He remembers the digging by hand for 2 1/2 miles and 36 inches deep for the natural gas delivery. He has since worked with a number of manufacturers, and mentioned several, including W.A. Call in San Jose who supplied sheet metal, Reem Company in Fort Smith, Arkansas who provided furnaces, and Moden in Madison, Wisconsin who supplied space heaters for the Noble House.

He and his wife currently sponsor five children. His home church is the First Baptist Church of Los Altos. He and his wife, Eleanor have three children (two daughters and one son) and two grandchildren. The latter, thirteen year old twins, he hopes will soon join him at Caminul Felix to meet his "other grandchildren."

His recent trip's purpose was to oversee the installation of range hoods for the recently opened kitchen in the Open Hand House. He will also join a team from Santa Cruz Bible Church and friends in July for work on the Teenage House.

Babb certainly is welcomed by the thirteen children of Calvary House and their house parents, Dana and Paul Luncan. With notes of love on the door and a room in the house, he and his wife are indeed welcomed home with every visit. The children smiled and said, "He is like our grandfather."

It is not difficult to see the joy being shared and passed around. The popcorn machine that the Babbs recently brought is but another expression of the love they have for the Caminul Felix children.

Babb enthusiastically says, "[Caminul Felix] is like a disease…There is no cure the doctors have found yet. You must visit."

Visit www.caminulfelix.org - HSR

2006-07-03T03:02:00.000-05:00

Following the scenic Jiu Valley, we drove through the mining town of Petrosani. From Petrosani into Hateg, we parallelled the Jiu River with the Valcan and Parang Mountains bordering the road.

With the frustration of road construction, we ignored the hassle and chose instead to experience the stunning views of the Retezat Mountains. The Retezat National Park was established in 1935. It became a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1980.

We arrived in Hateg only moments before a thunder and lightning storm and decided to spend the evening with friends. Our dinner was a personal and Romanian favorite, mamaliga. Mamaliga is similar to polenta and can be boiled, baked or fried. It is traditionally served with one or all of the following: cheese, sour cream and butter. Mmmm….

With shelter and comfort food, it was a perfect end to another day’s ride. – HSR & BGR

2006-07-03T02:55:00.000-05:00

Skirting the rains and enjoying the scenic road, we arrived into Targu Jiu with thunder booming and ominous clouds rolling in. However, Targu Jiu was a definite stop no matter the weather.

It was home to international sculptor, Constantin Brancusi (1876-1957) who is a personal favorite of ours. Having seen his works in the National Art Gallery in DC and the Met in NYC, it was an amazing experience to view his pieces outdoors and be able to touch them!

He dedicated the four works in the memory of those who died in WW II (1937-8). In the Central Park are Brancusi’s three works – Gate of the Kiss (Poarta Sarutului), Alley of Chairs (Aleea Scaunelor), Table of Silence (Masa Tacerii).

The Gate of Kiss was to commemorate the reunification of Romania. It bears a striking resemblance to Bucharest’s Triumphal Arch and has folk art designs from his native Oltenia.

The Alley of Chairs is composed of small stone stools grouped in threes.

The Table of Silence has 12 stools circling a large table, representing the months of the year.

Alone in another park, the Endless Column (Coloana Fara Sfarsit) stood at almost 30 meters tall with its 15 steel beads. We read that the Column is one of the planet’s top 100 art pieces. It was restored in 2000 for $4 million Euros.

For the art enthusiast, Tg. Jiu is a must-see! – BGR & HSR

2006-07-03T02:45:00.000-05:00

At our hosts’ encouragement, our first stop on the way to Targu Jiu was at the Polovragi Monastery (1470) with the backdrop of the Oltet Gorges.

We experienced the pace of morning life at a monastery with the cleaning of the sanctuary, the watering of the flowers on the grounds, and the painter painstakingly repairing one of the structures.

Then we were onto the Galbenul Gorges and the Women’s Cave (Pestera Muierilor) outside the town of Baia de Fier. At 10 degrees Celsius year around, the Cave contains the bones of women who retreated here for safety in the Middle Ages.

The area is a real gem–scenic roads, hiking trails, caves, gorges, mountain peaks. For an outdoor enthusiast, the area between Tg. Jiu and Ramnicu Valcea can be a great experience. – BGR & HSR

2006-06-29T03:16:00.000-05:00

With the sunsetting, we rode into the small town of Horezu. Horezu is best known for its beautiful pottery and the Brancoveanu monastery which is listed as an UNESCO World Heritage site.

Entering the monastery grounds through the carved pearwood doors and ten-pillared porchway, the focal point was the Great Church built in 1693. Indeed, the Western and Oriental architectural style of Brancoveanu can be witnessed here. We learned that the country’s most prestigious fresco painting school was here in the 17th and 18th centuries. On an interesting note, we were departing when two German motorcyclists arrived in search of lodging. The monastery has 20 rooms available for guests.

Ten kilometers from Horezu was another Brancoveanu-style structure, the Bistrita Monastery (1856). Until the early 80s, the monastery was home to one of the country’s largest schools for handicapped children.

While wooden furniture and wrought-iron items are made in Horezu, it is best known for its pottery.The plates are especially popular with their greys, blues, greens, and burnt yellows. Throughout the region, there are small shops as well as pieces displayed for sale along the roadside in front of homes. Fortunately, we had a bit of space for a few treasures (well wrapped) in the luggage!

After a phone call to a local family listed in our travel book, we arrived at the Draghici Family to spend the evening. We later would learn they had not been taking guests since 2003, but decided to accept us for the evening. Their immediate, gracious hospitality and dinner with appetizer, salad, main entrée and accompanying taste of Moldova wine and homemade cherry liquer was welcomed after a full day’s ride.

To our surprise, the next morning we were greeted with a wonderful breakfast of hard boiled egg, bread, homemade plum jam, butter, and mint tea to ensure plenty of fuel for the long day’s ride ahead of us. – HSR

2006-06-29T03:01:00.000-05:00

Our next stop was at the Iron Gates (Portile de Fier). Completed in 1972, the Gates are a massive, concrete dam that generates hydro-electric power. The top of the dam also serves as a road linking the borders of Romania and Serbia. Signage clearly dictated that no photographing was allowed – but the English speaking passenger claimed lack of understanding…

Despite the lack of pedestrian access (in contrast to the Hoover Dam), we took in the remaining views of the Danube and Serbia. The landscape darkened and bore the mar of industrialization.

Continuing into the city of Drobeta Turnu-Severin named the “town of roses” for its beautiful parks, we spent a few moments in the downtown area. The town displayed a clear link to its past—18th and 19th centuries architecture, ornate parks, monuments. Yet, somehow, there was an air of tiredness about the town, a feeling difficult to explain. And the feeling persisted in spite of the beautiful summer day.

We continued into Craiova passing the oil wells and industrial past of Communism. Surrounded by pollution, it would have been easy to keep riding right through Craiova. However, the university downtown was vibrant and bustling with traffic and new storefronts. During the first part of the 20th century, Craiova was a strong francophone city—should you have walked its streets, you would have been hard-pressed to figure out whether you were in France or elsewhere. Between the architecture and the seeming joie de vivre of its citizens, the town displays a character all its own. It is home to Craiova beer. It also boasts a beautiful art museum which houses a selection of Brancusi’s pieces. The museum was supposedly home to a former Polish president and later Ceausescu.

From Craiova we headed to Slatina and took a left on the road that parallels the river Olt. We rode into the Olt Valley skirting spring storms, passing several rural villages, through Dragasani and into Ramnicu Valcea. Ramnicu Valcea is another industrial stronghold. After what seemed to have been the day of industry—from the Iron Gates, to Craiova, to Ramnicu Valcea—we decided that the fresh air of the countryside was clearly needed. So we headed for Horezu, a well-known town. On the way, we stopped in the quiet village of Costesti which boasts the annual Roma Festival. The September festival draws several Romas from across Romania, who generally come either by horse and cart or their vehicle of choice—the Mercedes-Benz. – BGR & HSR

2006-06-29T02:42:00.000-05:00

We decided to spend the evening in the resort village of Baile Herculane and located a pleasant home offering a room for approximately 20 USD. From the delightful conversation to fresh strawberries with sugar (a Romanian favorite) to covering the motorcycle with a tarp from the rains, Anghelina welcomed us as family.

Baile Herculane is nestled in the Cerna Valley with its natural springs and renowned sulfur, healing springs. Mt Domogled towers over the town which credits its origins to the legend that Hercules bathed here after a battle and healed his wounds! In the 19th century, Herkulesbad (as it was known then) was frequented by Western European aristocrats and royalty. Today, it is an aging resort with numerous hotels in desperate need of repair and extensive renovations. Yet, its antique charm and sulfur smell still captivate you.

With rains moving into the region, it wasn’t a difficult choice for us to enjoy a day walking, photographing and riding the mountain roads. The forests surrounding the resort have been protected since the early 1930s and provide excellent hiking trails. We also had an additional benefit with our stay in Baile Herculane – the air. Due to the area’s geological composition, the air is said to be healthier to breathe due to its increased negative ionization. - BGR & HSR

2006-06-28T04:11:00.000-05:00

After riding through the mountains from Resita to Anina and then on to Oravita, we were in for quite a pleasant surprise when we approached Moldova Noua. Even before reaching the town, we were offered a fantastic panorama of the great Danube. The Danube is the natural border between Romania and both Serbia and Bulgaria. The river has been a natural resource, a navigation route, a tourist attraction, a subject for many songs and poems, and a challenge for centuries.

With only 100 kilometers from Moldova Noua to Orsova, we were confident that we could enjoy the ride along with photographing the scenery – little did we know that it would take us four hours! We took this scenic road not long after a series of floods and terrain slides washed out entire sections. At the time, there were crews strewn about the whole length working on drainage and road repairs. So, we never quite knew what the next bend would bring - we rode on a nice section for a little while, only to be thrown into long stretches with dirt, gravel, bulldozers, and not to mention, potholes.

However, while mindful of the road, we were absolutely taken by the splendid views. The water, the mountains, the lush forests, the road and the perfect weather conspired to create a magical experience. We had to frequently remind ourselves that we were photographing Romania, a country known (if at all) for dingy industrial towns, orphanages and a communist past. Yes, Romania can be a magical experience and a land of breathtaking beauty, charm and enjoyment! We most certainly found what we came here for - and much more.

As many European countries, Romania is a place where past and present coexist, at times awkwardly, at other times pleasantly blended. The rusty, steel border patrol look-out was a reminder of the days when the political system was as much concerned about keeping enemies at bay, as it was busy keeping its people from escaping. Particularly during the 80s, many Romanians lost their lives attempting to swim across the Danube to Serbia, and from there to Western Europe or North America seeking freedom and a better life.

The road’s scenic qualities were comparable to the US Pacific Coast Highway. The contrast was the unspoiled natural beauty not yet given an exclusive price tag. We saw families camping roadside, men fishing on the banks, people riding bicycles from town to town. At the Cazanele Mici gorges, there was even a church squeezed by the side of the road between the rocks—not quite a drive-in religious experience, but quite close to it!

The beauty of this part of the country is only matched by the friendliness of the people. These are open and approachable folks, who seem to have a ready smile and an available moment for a question or a chat. Unlike other parts of Romania we’ve ridden through where only children might wave as we pass, here even adults would wave or nod as we crossed through towns. During a break to stretch and photograph the ruins of Tricula Fortress, we even met the postman of Svinita heading home with his tractor and a double load of hay. In between questions about the bike and our trip, he mentioned that he had an old bike with only 7,000 kilometers on it, that he took out a couple of times a year and enjoyed riding it.

The road is part of the National Park of the Iron Gates which comprises an area of 115,000 hectares. The park boasts a unique flora and fauna that is protected and preserved. Seeing tourists and cars, we happened upon what looked like the Romanian Mount Rushmore! A face carved into the side of a rock on the mountain – King Decebal. Decebal was the last king of the tribes which inhabited the teritorries north of the Danube before Roman conquest. Decebal is celebrated as a hero for valiantly resisting the forces of Emperor Trajan in the 2nd century BC. He was eventually defeated after Trajan comissioned the great architect Apolodor of Damascus to build a bridge across the Danube to carry the Roman troops.

After experiencing the spectacular Cazan Gorges, we rode into Orsova as the sunset was setting. – BGR

2006-06-28T03:09:00.000-05:00

Every time we get on the road, there’s a sense of anticipation dominating the early part of the ride. What will we see? What will we experience? How will the roads be? Will we have any surprises? Then, as we ride, some of these questions find answers—OK, the roads are pretty decent so far; the views are quite satisfying and enjoyable. We settle in the rhythm of traffic and the motorcycle. Some roads have lighter traffic allowing us to enjoy a tamer pace unencumbered. Other roads are burdened by logging trucks, commercial tractor trailers, delivery vans, and always-in-a-hurry passenger vehicles. On such a road, it is almost impossible to savor the sights, not to mention the sounds—if you don’t keep up with traffic, you risk being able to read the small company logo on the headlights from the truck behind you that’s about to mount you…… “aha! Hella Hallogen 55 Watts! I’ve always wondered who made those bright and shiny beams…”

The beauty of two-lane roads is that they tend to be more scenic and less monotone. The downside of two-lane roads in Romania is the lack of alternatives, such as divided highways, or freeways. That being said, if the day is sunny, pleasantly warm (underline ‘pleasantly’), and traffic is bearable, it is such a joy to roll through fields, valleys, mountain passes, forests, and simply sense the rhythm of the world around you. With the motorcycle engine humming contently, you can settle enough to smell the fresh grass being mowed as you pass through a village, the scent of the cow farm sprawled on the side of the road, or the forest flowers in full blossom. You feel the temperature change as you drop into a shady valley or as you roll into a busy town. You even hear the busy chirping and singing of birds as you cross through forest clearings where they nest.

More importantly, the best part about a riding journey is the intimacy you feel with your surroundings. There are no walls or windows to separate you from the world you experience. As you ride through towns, the people walking on the road, or waiting for a ride (yes, hitchhiking is still alive and well in Romania) are right there, next to you—you can literally reach and touch them. Well, I would not advise trying to touch them at 30 miles per hour, since that would possibly be hazardous to everyone’s health. But, the lack of a ‘bubble’ or ‘cage’ as some call it, certainly makes the experience more intense. And this fact is validated by the spontaneous exchanges experienced while riding (whether moving or at a stop). People tend to take notice and follow you with an active, inquisitive stare. Sometimes, you can read their questions or thoughts on their faces as you go by. Other times, if stopped, they approach more easily to ask questions or share their own motorcycle experiences. “This bike is huge!” “WOW! How big is the motor?” “Where are you from?” “You know, I had a bike 30 years ago—I went everywhere with that thing…” “I like your bike. I also have a bike—it’s a Jawa 350.” The stories keep coming and flowing, seemingly following a certain rhythm of their own. On certain days, it’s a rhythm whose groove is easy to find and understand. On others, the noise may be too loud—which generally means that you have to wait ‘till later to let the rhythm reveal itself.

“To ride or not to ride?” is not really a question. The music is always playing. Do you want to listen? — BGR

2006-06-28T02:22:00.000-05:00

Join us for one of our most memorable journeys with twists and wonders of 1,200 kilometers! From the experiencing the beauty of Serbia across the Danube to roads washed out by the spring floods to meeting the postman of a small village enroute home on his tractor to enjoying wonderful conversation and dinner with our host family in the village of Horezu to visits at three monasteries nestled in the Capatanii mountains to experiencing Constantin Brancusi’s works in Targu Jiu’s parks to kilometers of twisty roads along the Jiu Valley to Petrosani and into Hateg with spectacular views of the Retezat Mountains.

Riding south from Timisoara into Resita, we were greeted with good asphalt and expansive views of the plains and the mountains.

From Bocsa to Resita to Anina and into Oravita, the narrow road snaked through picturesque villages, revealing crumbling factories and high-rise flats in stark contrast to the backdrop of the natural beauty of the forests. We witnessed again that the former Communist dictator, Ceausescu had left very few areas of the country untouched with his supposed ‘grand plan for civilization.’

One of our favorite stops was along the mountain road into Oravita, when we captured these playful little lizards on camera! – HSR

2006-06-27T10:15:00.000-05:00

Our recent week-long visit to Caminul Felix Villages was as always, enlightening. With every visit, we have the opportunity to meet another family, to listen to another child’s dream, and to share our hearts with many happy children.

We enjoyed this week’s backyard bonfire and watching World Cup 2006 soccer matches with the kids. It was a fun experience learning how to make langosi and placinte with Elena. We met a U.S. mission team of ten students serving at CF for two weeks. Representing various Christian colleges, their home base was just 30 miles north of Louisville, Kentucky.

We also met two students from California who were interning for three months with children with disabilities in a special school and at the children’s hospital. We shared lunch and an evening of stories with a couple from California in their 11th month working at CF. We witnessed the CF teenagers unloading a trailer truck filled with furniture and work supplies for a Rotary team from California completing two apartments at the Teenage House for the children making the transition into independent living.

The common thread in all of these people and their stories was their service with their hearts and their hands for the children. These generous folks were bringing to life the words of Caminul Felix’s founder, “Each child deserves a happy family.”

One of the most inspirational events for us was meeting Joe, a 76 year-old gentleman from California. This was his 21st visit to Caminul Felix Villages. He and his wife have three children and two grandchildren. He shared about his love for the “thirteen grandchildren in the Calvary House.” The mutual affection is evident when he showed us the popcorn machine he had brought as a present and the welcome notes posted by the children on their house door.

As one of 58 team members who had built the Calvary House, he vividly recalled his first visit in 2000 commenting, “I have never done anything in my life that I enjoy more.” He owns a plumbing and heating business and has not yet retired. He has assisted CF with numerous installations from kitchens to bathrooms to the village conversion from propane to natural gas “digging by hand 2 1/2 miles and 36 inches deep.” He will visit CF three times in 2006 and serve as part of another team build next month.

With his eyes sparkling, he said, “Caminul Felix is like a disease…the doctors have not found a cure yet. You must visit.”

At every turn of this journey, we have been confronted with the beauty and the simplicity of giving. Our smallest acts of kindness have brought us unspeakable joy and contentment. We have also experienced the humility of receiving often in the most unlikely circumstances.

We encourage you to open your heart to experience the passion of giving. It is a promise that receiving will never feel the same again.– HSR

2006-06-27T09:35:00.000-05:00

A day exploring the Mures Valley can be quite a pleasant experience. The road meanders along the sinews of the Mures river, passing through picturesque towns and villages, revealing sights of vineyards and gardens, and providing the opportunity to glance at the occasional castle.

The Abbey of Maria-Radna (1756) is an old pilgrimage site which is now a hospital. Across the bridge from Radna is the historic, cobblestone-paved town of Lipova with its authentic Turkish bazaar and intriguing 15th century Orthodox church. It is also home to the Lipova mineral water and a reviving small spa resort.

Riding down the road and reaching the town of Savarsin, we glimpse through the trees to view one of the residences of Romania’s last king, King Mihai (1940-47). He currently resides in Switzerland, and comes to Savarsin usually for Christmas.

As the road hugs the hills on one side, villages developed in areas where the river provided enough clearing for agriculture. Village after village you see people resting on benches in front of their houses, while others stroll or bike around. The oddity is that more often than not, people walk on the actual roadway, which is frequented by heavy commercial traffic. Currently, the road, E68, is one of the busiest highways in Romania. Thankfully, a beautiful 13th century church and cemetery in Gurasada make a welcome stopping point along the twisty road.

Passing through the city of Deva, we continue south to Hunedoara and the location of one of Transylvania’s treasures, the Corvin Castle. Surrounded by the ugliness of abandoned steel mills, the 14th century castle boasts a drawbridge, three pointed towers, marble columns, splendid halls, and high fortifications. The castle was most recently restored in the early 1950s. Definitely worth the visit! – BGR

2006-06-19T03:16:00.000-05:00

The ruins of Soimos are a favorite hiking and picnicking spot for families on a Sunday afternoon. Soimos is located just a few kilometers up the road from the center of Lipova in Arad County.

The hike to the ruins is a pleasant, steep trek on a narrow path with pastoral views overlooking the Mures Valley. Grazing sheep and horses on the hillside complete the picture.

The ruins are surprisingly well preserved despite their relative accessibility. They were built in the 13th century and reinforced in the 15th century. If you are in the area, it is worth a visit.- BGR & HSR

2006-06-19T02:49:00.000-05:00

As a passenger, perhaps the most difficult part of the adventure is the confrontation with the fact that there is no plan. There cannot be a plan, as Romanian roads bring uncertainty and the weather is unpredictable. I am reminded there is no documented itinerary charting our course – only the map to review, money to change, motorcycle bags to be packed, and then the riding begins!

Our mission remains constant. We ride wherever the road takes us - and often only as far as it takes us. We ride in whatever weather the day holds – and how we miss the Weather Channel with weather on the 6s. We ride to experience the sights and the sounds of Romania to share together - and then with you.

With three luggage carriers on the motorcycle, packing the house is not an option. We each have one saddle bag for clothing with the trunk holding the air compressor, chain spray, First Aid kit, toiletries, 2 liter of water, toilet paper (a must as Romania does not have easily accessible public restrooms), and in case of rain, space for the tank bag with the camera and travel books.

In regards to lodging, the option to call ahead for a reservation is not possible with our late arrival into small rural villages. There are no chain hotels except in the capital or large cities (Best Western, Hotel Intercontinental, etc.). There are local hotels and pensuines offering rooms in towns. Since we are frequently in small, rural villages, we simply look for a sign indicating a room (cazare) or utilize travel books to learn of families networked with Antrec. Antrec is similar to bed-and-breakfast networks offering a room in private homes. Again, a part of the adventure and a wonderful opportunity to experience unparalleled hospitality.

Riding days are quiet days. For the driver, it is a time of extreme focus and concentration on the roads as well as absorbing the beauty of his native country. For me, it is a time of intense reflection and overwhelming experience. I am flooded with emotions and thoughts on the simplicity of life, as I watch the fields being worked through sweat and hard work. I experience the hospitality of the Romanian people with their interest in learning about our journey, and view poverty and wealth existing side by side. I continue to be humbled at every turn of the journey. - HSR

2006-06-19T02:41:00.000-05:00

May and June are great months to visit Romania. The weather is pleasant, the trees are in bloom, and the Romanian plains are covered with the brilliant red patches of poppies (maci). Here is a sample from one of our days on the road. - HSR

2006-06-19T02:27:00.000-05:00

The Arad Auto Expo was a real hit with visitors, and a success for vendors as well. The expo was focused mainly on cars, with the usual manufacturers on hand to show their vehicles--VW, BMW, Mercedes, Ford, Opel, Seat, Renault, Toyota, Nissan. The show also included a couple of motorcycle stands, namely BMW and Yamaha.

The atmosphere was great, highlighted by the presence of a 150,000-Euro Aston Martin and an almost equally expensive Maseratti, both swarmed by throngs of fans and expo models. From the offerings, it is clear that with the price of gas at $5 per gallon, and with diesel fuel cheaper, Europeans in general, and Romanians in particular, greatly favor diesel-powered vehicles. Consequently, all manufacturers provide a host of diesel motors in most of their classes. It was surprising to see BMWs (even the 5 and 7 series) powered by diesels, not to mention the VWs, Opels and others. The technology has come a long way from the 1980s smoky, loud motors that the US market shunned. These new motors are quieter, smoother and considerably more powerful. When it comes to choices, more is better... - BGR

2006-06-11T10:01:00.000-05:00

Are you worried about your real estate investments in the US market? You may want to diversify internationally!

Here's what Habitat for Humanity has posted on its website:

Romania, Most Profitable European Destination For Real Estate Investments

Romania is on the first place in a top of the most profitable 20 European states in terms of the estimated profit for the following 10 years in the real estate field, according to British TV station Channel 4. Amanda Lamb, expert in property evaluation, explained that Romania has great economic growth perspectives, given the future EU accession. The analyst showed that a country house, bought with 17,000 GB pounds, with invested funds of some EUR 145,000 might be sold for some EUR 750,000 after 10 years. The analyst estimates that investors will be attracted to the Romanian real estate market after the EU accession. Poland is on the second place in the top, with a profitability rate of 393 percent, followed by Portugal, Estonia, Lithuania and Latvia. The top was based on data supplied by consultancy company PricewaterhouseCoopers regarding the economic growth rate of each state.

2006-06-11T09:27:00.000-05:00

With spring rains impeding our motorcycle adventures, we enjoyed a long weekend with family in the cozy resort town of Moneasa nestled in the Codru-Moma Mountains. Even in the rain, Moneasa’s beautiful, towering pine trees, meandering streams, and hiking trails are uplifting and serene.

It is the perfect place with its own pace to retreat with a good book or to meet old and new friends. There are plenty of hotel rooms, villas for rental or camping spots available. The pool (strand) is open for a swim. The grill and terrace invite a taste of mici with a good selection of local brews and snack items. Mici are a Romanian speciality sausage made with spicy pork and beef, that's usually enjoyed with fresh bread and mustard.

The hiking trails are well marked throughout the adjoining hillsides. We headed for the trails for mid-morning exercise, to enjoy the fresh mountain air and nature’s beauty. Our trail ended at the Bats’ Cave perched on the mountain. We did not have proper lighting and clothing (thankfully!) to explore the supposed 30 meters of very narrow passage before the cave apparently opens into an expansive room.

A special place to enjoy a few days celebrating good conversation, good food and good rest. – BGR & HSR

2006-06-11T09:18:00.000-05:00

Dedicated to my favorite Army Colonel! This is your month - CONGRATULATIONS!!!

Historically, the city of Arad developed around a military fortification on the banks of the river Mures. After centuries, the star-shaped structure is not only still standing, but it is still housing an Army military unit. Perhaps, the fact that the fortress is in the middle of the city would not be such an oddity. But, the fact that regularly, the soldiers come out of the barracks on the area surrounding the fortress for military drills is rather odd. Imagine a sunny afternoon in the middle of an otherwise pleasant city. Imagine the usual sounds associated with such a city—vehicles, birds, children playing, a car stereo going by…

And then, all of a sudden, BOOM-BOOM-BOOM… RAH-TAH-TAH-TAH-TAH….. RAH-TAH-TAH…. RAH-TAH-TAH….. BOOM-BOOM-BOOM…. Smoke, fire, military orders being barked left and right!!!! What the heck just happened!?!?!?!?! And the sound and the fury goes on for a good time. Well, it was the military staging a mock attack, followed by a counter-attack, replete with movement of troops, grenade launchers and tracers… At times like that it is good to be on the top floor of a high-rise to better see the action, although the sensation is no less unnerving. The best part was watching the cows that had initially shared the pasture with the soldiers scamper away, probably thinking—“Holy Cow! This grass’smokin’; we’re outta here”!!! – BGR

2006-06-11T09:05:00.000-05:00

International Children’s Day celebration was June 1st. The day’s festivities can be experienced in most cities and villages across Romania, often downtown or in the central parks with children’s music and activities.

We spent the day with the children of Caminul Felix Family Villages. It was a simple reminder of the innocence and the beauty of life that exists for a child. A child once neglected and seen as useless, now lovingly embraced and reminded of their brighter tomorrow. In the words of the Caminul Felix founder, Lars Hornberg, “You must find a place in your heart for the children of Caminul Felix.” – HSR

2006-06-11T09:02:00.000-05:00

One afternoon I heard a plane nearing the window and observed its proximity and the spray falling from its tail! I learned this is a common spring sight, as mosquitoes are a real problem around the Mures River and the city. After misting the city, the plane proceeded to complete maneuvers weaving around the city through the apartment blocks! - HSR

2006-06-05T04:06:00.000-05:00

These tasty fried treats - langosi - are a favorite of the Caminul Felix children.

The recipe is a mixture of flour, yeast, salt and water; kneaded and allowed to rise; then fried in hot oil by spoonfuls and flattened; topped with cheese or a mixture of sour cream, garlic and dill or stuffed with cheeses or cabbage. They are simply delicious! – HSR

2006-06-05T03:24:00.000-05:00

Romania's Gross Average Monthly Income: US$200

Liter of Gas = US$1.30 (Gallon of Gas = US$4.94)

Liter of Milk = US$0.74 (Gallon of Milk = US$2.80)

Liter of Water = US$0.50 (Gallon of Water = US$1.90)

Loaf of Bread = US$0.74

Eggs (12) = US$1.30

Value-Added Tax on ALL Items (U.S. Sales Tax equivalent) = 19%

Romania finds itself in a difficult situation on the eve of integration into the European Union. Romanians have a difficult time making ends meet. On one hand, incomes are low across the board. On the other, the cost-of-living is very high.

For additional information, please visit MotoRomania's Facts. - BGR

2006-06-03T07:41:00.000-05:00

After a few days spent at Caminul Felix, we clearly realize our own blessings of home and resources when faced with these children’s realities. We realize the great love of our own families. We realize the importance of simple laughter and love in the eyes of a child. And from this perspective, we appreciate even more the work and ministry that Caminul Felix is providing for Romanian children.

Following a full day, our first night was spent helping with homework - an English essay, writing love letters for the girls, and meeting Viorel, a recent Caminul Felix and college graduate, his beautiful wife and their energetic, three year old boy. Our evening was spent in the common area of the house, as each child demanded our full attention and often our immediate touch in response. Each one wanted to share a special moment with us. Each one wanted to ask us personal questions.

Our second night was spent enjoying time outdoors in the Village’s commons area. Children from the various houses were out playing together, riding bicycles, swinging, laughing, and even starting a game of soccer (fotbal), as the sun was setting into the plains. It was a memorable evening. As the old man in the group, my husband proudly stated he had scored three goals – with only a few mud stains on his jeans to show for his success! Once the game ended, about 10 p.m., 20 children gathered around the motorcycle and began chanting for my husband to start the engine. They insisted on each getting their own ride. He obviously could not give them each a ride, so he resorted to simply revving the engine for the delight of the boys!

We also met a group of five college students from the States and Canada who are volunteering five weeks to build a pavilion/barbeque pit for the children of Caminul Felix. What a treat to share stories of home and laughter! Thank you for your hard work and love for Romania. You will be blessed for your gift of love and live with a changed heart from your time with the children of Caminul Felix.

Our third night was spent again joining the fun inside and outside the house.Unfortunately, we could not have the much-anticipated bonfire as rains moved in. So my husband joined a pick-up game of basketball (yes, in the rain) and I had my hair braided by one of the girls while enjoying a few peaceful moments with the house parents.

You will hear more about our experiences as we share stories about the children we meet and about the special work happening at Caminul Felix and Action Felix. – HSR

2006-06-03T06:56:00.000-05:00

Along with our guide to the roads of Romania, we have another special reason to be here. We found a special organization that cares for abandoned and neglected children in a loving and creative way. We wish to share with you a few details about this organization, Caminul Felix Family Villages in Oradea . The C.F. Villages provide more than 200 children with a home, loving parents and extended family. These special children of Romania were once abandoned and neglected – either in the care of state-run institutions or hospitals, or sometimes being without family, even on the streets.

And while Romania’s orphans and orphanages seem to be the sore thumb that always sticks out in Western media outlets (when they run out of other "spectacular" stories), there are plenty of positive and heart-warming real stories that do not quite make it in the headlines. As we spend time on the streets of Romania, the reality is similar to other places around the world, where a market economy does not find an equilibrium price for social needs. When the price of caring for orphans, oftentimes pushed by political interests, is too high, many a children go hungry, homeless, or in terrible conditions. Of course, many other countries create this ugly reality, but of course, the media have found other subjects to tag those places with, so Romania is, unfortunately, stuck with "orphanage disasters."

The organization started in 1990 with an apartment and a couple of children rescued from the local orphanage. Through the relentless work and compassionate care of its founders, house parents and volunteers, today, Caminul Felix has grown into two villages with 16 homes, a transitional home for teenagers leaving the adoptive family and moving into adulthood, and a non-profit commercial arm that provides food, clothing and training opportunities for children. There are dedicated couples who are living as integrated families with up to 16 children per family, and who provide a normal family life to kids who would, otherwise, be in an institution or on the streets. And to actually meet, talk and experience these children and their current realities in light of their early lives is most amazing. These children were abandoned by their parents, literally left on the doorsteps of orphanages and hospitals. They were kids without a chance, without a future. Yet, today, they smile, they dream, they communicate vividly about their life and their hopes and plans for tomorrow.

We spent this week for a few days in the company of one such family. The parents started at Caminul Felix in the early stages, back in 1992. Most of their children are now teenagers, facing realities common around the world—exams, summer vacation, favorite musicians, plans for college. They are bright, engaging, constantly eager to communicate, share and learn. As the house father smilingly says, "I hope you brought an open heart and your listening ears. The kids will keep you busy while you’re here..."

The house is alive with twin sisters who insist on staying close by and sharing jokes; boys who love cars and motorcycles, and girls who are mini-experts in everything from soccer to fashion. They are twelve beautiful children only wanting a listening ear or a hug, or help with homework, or a snack. But most importantly, they simply want to be loved. We thought we could understand the realities of these once abandoned and neglected children who have been adopted into loving families – but the experiences of the three days have changed our hearts in ways hard to express. Of course, we cannot forget their house parents, who have dedicated themselves to building a loving family while being committed to the day-to-day administrative operations of Caminul Felix. A very special ”thank you” to them for opening their hearts and home to us.

While I realize that today I don’t have an exciting road to write about, I hope you’ll take a few moments to visit their web site and learn more about a Romanian success story. It is a story of love, dedication, and commitment—one that is showing real results. Several generations of Caminul Felix children have successfully made the transition into adulthood, graduated college, and started their own families. All of those achievements being possible because someone cared enough to offer them a chance, a future. – BGR

2006-05-29T11:28:00.000-05:00

Arad - Timisoara - Lugoj - Caransebes - Resita - Semenic

Our riding loop into the Semenic Mountains was much more of an adventure than we thought when we set out early in the afternoon! The ride to Timisoara, 46 km away was quick and eventless. We rode through the city and on to Recas—a town known for its vineyards and good wines. For those of you snickering behind your monitors (you know who you are), Romania does produce some good wines… he he he. The town is situated among gently sloping hills, and produces the domestic Feteasca Regala and Muscat Ottonel, along with a good selection of Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay.

Next, we headed down the road into Lugoj for a quick stretch in the picturesque downtown. Lugoj is home to a good number of Romanian musicians and composers. Lugoj is also the birthplace of Bela Lugosi (born 1882 as Bela Ferenc Blasko), the actor who immortalized the original Dracula character in the famous Hollywood film.

From Lugoj we continued our journey to Caransebes. Outside of Caransebes, towards Resita, we were greeted by the smoothest stretch of road we have encountered yet, with expansive mountain views and orchards lining both sides of the highway. The roads were reminiscent of our riding days in Eastern Kentucky and those great twisty roads! For a brief period all of the V-Strom’s 98 horses were allowed to roam freely—what joy!

Entering the city of Resita we were greeted by what was once one of Romania’s preeminent industrial cities—an important steel center during the communist heydays. Much of the town’s landscape is marred by steel mills, factories and conveyor belts, most of them left in disarray and abandon.

We quickly passed through town and headed up into the mountains towards Semenic, a well-known ski resort during the winter months. The ascent was beautiful, as it was in the late afternoon and the sun was highlighting all of the valleys and villages nestled in the mountains. The road is narrow and winds upward, mile after mile, at times, displaying significant potholes. It’s a real challenge, particularly when you meet an oncoming logging truck. After what seemed like miles, we came upon the quiet mountain village of Valiug.

Did we fail to mention that we had not taken water or food with us? Yes, this journey was only supposed to be a quick afternoon loop! (As we have learned when riding and exploring, time becomes irrelevant for our driver…) However, the forest (padurea) provided us with a special treat – a natural spring bursting straight out of the mountainside!

From the water stop, we headed to the Semenic Ski Resort. There was still snow on the sides of the road and a strong wind blew across the mountain, which explained the wind mills perched up top. We passed a shack serving as the resort store, bar and coffee house. The expressions on the people’s faces as we rode by clearly indicated that we were either crazy or from outer space to be riding a bike up there. Even the watch dogs lounging outside glanced up but didn’t budge as we passed.

Of course, to add spice to the trip, our gas gauge dropped precipitously to one bar—a bit suddenly and unexpectedly. Here we were on top of the mountain and the closest gas station was somewhere in the valleys below, a good distance away. And we intended to descend on the eastern slope of the mountain, in the opposite direction from Resita.

As we rode into the town of Brebu Nou, we stopped to ask a kind lady if we were headed in the right direction. She confirmed that the road was the right one, but mentioned that the condition of the road was “really bad up ahead.” Then, looking at and visibly measuring the bike with her glance, she continued, “but with that, it’s gonna work.”

Encouraged, we rode on, and for a while didn’t experience anything too bad, except for the fact that the pavement gave way to cobblestone. OK, we can handle this… But then, sure enough, the cobblestone disappeared and gave way to dirt with deep potholes, mud in spots and sharp turns!

With the sun slowly setting and the gas light flashing, we decided that we might run out of gas at this rate. So, the motor was shut off, the headlights left on, and we descended for 10 miles with nothing but the sound of the tires crushing stone and the rush of air around us. What an eerie experience! An almost 500-pound bicycle rolling down the hill at 15-25 miles per hour…thank God for shocks and springs. These miles seemed like hours, as we painstakingly navigated potholes and mud, often standing on the foot pegs. We only had to start the engine once in all those miles for a few seconds, because the slope had leveled off briefly. My wife remembered that the camera was still around her neck and decided to film a portion of this experience to share with you all—unfortunately, we managed to erase it!

A truly funny moment that sent us both into laughter was when we met a man walking uphill on this stretch of forest road. We greeted him with a simple “Buna” (short form for Good Day), and he simply stopped and stared with mouth agap as the motorcycle quietly rolled-by. His expression was clearly puzzled—what the heck are these two riding?

We finally coasted into the sleepy town of Slatina de Timis, and passed old homes and children playing in the street. In the center of town we restarted the engine. Not only was the gaslight no longer blinking, but there were TWO bars indicating plenty of gas! Now it was our time to be puzzled and wonder ‘what the heck?!’

As we drove through town looking for a gas station, four dirt bikes with their riders covered in mud from top to bottom blew right by us raising a cloud of dust. These folks clearly knew the best mode of transportation to explore this region—a real off-road bike!

As the sun was setting, we left the mountains and drove 20 kilometers to Caransebes for gas (and a bathroom)! As we gassed-up for the 2-hour ride back, we realized what an unexpected, yet fantastic trip the day had offered. – BGR & HSR

2006-05-29T01:27:00.000-05:00

The clatite (crepes) is a favorite treat in Romania. They are typically rolled with salty (sarat) and sweet (dulce) fillings—sweet cheeses, mushrooms, jams.

Our salty filling was with olive paste (paste de masline) and meat (carne). Our sweet filling was made with a mixture of cheese (brinza), sour cream (smantana), egg yolk (galbenus de ou), sugar (zahar) and raisins (stafide).

We only wish you could have been here to enjoy them with us! – HSR & BGR

2006-05-26T01:43:00.000-05:00

The stork (barza) is a welcomed springtime guest across Romania. Their nests can be seen decorating the tops of telephone poles. Early in the morning or late in the afternoon may be the only time to glimpse these beautiful creatures, as they guard their eggs from predators after searching for food during the day. – HSR

2006-05-26T01:38:00.000-05:00

The sight of those Stars & Stripes stirs inside me an unspeakable pride. This feeling still surfaces for me with every overseas trip.

As an American, I have not felt threatened in Romania as a foreign traveller. Quite the contrary, as Romanians like Americans, they are welcoming and filled with questions about the country. They always ask about life in America and frequently launch into political discussions and offer commentaries. - HSR

2006-05-25T04:09:00.000-05:00

A visit exploring the nearby Hungarian border cities of Bekescsaba & Gyula proves good for the soul. These cities are favorite day trips for many Romanians as they are within 5-10 km of the Hungarian-Romanian border.

The trip provides the chance to hear a very different language – one that is most closely related to the Finnish language than the Latin-based Romanian language. Hungary also offers the opportunity to enjoy great shopping, plenty of people watching and a stroll through the neighborhoods in the picturesque downtowns. --BGR & HSR

2006-05-25T04:01:00.000-05:00

With Romania’s explosion in home construction, the Furniture & Design Expo provided a great opportunity to glimpse the latest contemporary furniture styles, sleek kitchens, bath accessories, and modern home design wares.

We want to introduce three special artisans we met at the Expo, who shared their passions for glass, paint and mixed media engraving. We look forward to visiting their respective studios and featuring their art in the near future.

Eniko Czirjak is a phenomenal, glass designer whose works have received national recognition. Her work is bold in its approach, yet filled with color and texture subtleties. I am glad to own a beautiful glass necklace crafted by Eniko - http://www.utiglass.ro/

Giotto Doichita is an oil painter specializing in abstracts with a keen eye for classical portraits, landscapes and still lives. http://www.giotto-doichita.com/

Dacian Selegean is a voluble and highly opinionated artist specializing in laser engraving. He engraves a variety of surfaces with beautiful images – from leather to wood to glass and mixed media. We enjoyed an engaging discussion of politics and economics. --HSR & BGR

2006-05-24T03:14:00.000-05:00

A visit to a friend’s house is always a special treat no matter where you are or what day of the week it is. It is always a time to share good food and good conversation.

Our dear friends, Viorica and Mihaela live in Sebis, a town on the road to Moneasa, near the Codru-Moma Mountains. It is a pleasant town, well-known for its leather processing and products. The people are friendly and welcoming. The town is dotted with houses and many gardens (gradini), and giggling, mischievous little boys playing in the streets.

Our special table treats were two Romanian specialties: sarmale and placinta intinsa or placinta intoarsa (peasant roll). Sarmale are cabbage rolls stuffed with pork, rice, onions and spices cooked in a broth on the stovetop—a real delight. Peasant roll can be stuffed with either salty cabbage or sweet cheese, apples or nuts. We enjoyed cheese (branza), nut (nuca), apple (mere) and cabbage (varza) fillings.

The process of making peasant rolls takes a good part of a day from the kneading of the dough to stretching it very thin on a large table to filling it to shaping it and preparing it for baking. Our host had made 25 of these rolls over a seven-hour period. Traditionally, these tasty rolls are enjoyed as a meal in and of itself in the countryside – and take my word, the apple and nut ones are out of this world!

After such a wonderful meal, we took a hike into the foothills and enjoyed the spectacular views. We picked a bouquet of daisies (margarete) and smelled the fresh forest air!

Another beautiful day in Romania...
- HSR & BGR

2006-05-24T02:58:00.000-05:00

It was an unexpected afternoon ride to the little village of Grosii Noi.

Looking at a map, we saw a road connecting the village of Capruta (located on E68 between Arad and Deva) with the town of Gurahont. Based on the meanderings of the map lines, it seemed like a real scenic treat, especially considering that it rides up through the hills into the mountains. Sure enough, the road was extremely scenic. After 5 km or so, it even turned to dirt, making the experience that much more rustic.

The views through the valleys were truly enjoyable—the lush spring green of the forests sprinkled here and there with cows and flocks of sheep. We passed through small villages where life seems to have stood still for the past 100 years, save for the occasional satellite dish poised on the roof.

Grosii Noi was one of those villages. Certainly, you would never think to make this a stopping point on this trip. The village does have an old wooden church bordered by the local cemetery—a postcard image of a different era. And the folks are curious but friendly, responding to your ‘Buna ziua’ with a nod and a ‘Buna’ or ‘Buna ziua’ of their own.

We were brought to this stop by the fact that a sudden summer rain had turned the uphill road past Grosii Noi into an impassable route. The muddy road led to a tail-wagging adventure, which on a motorcycle is hardly ever predictable or particularly enjoyable. We tried to continue, but it became clear that the road with the continuing rain would not relent. As we sat pondering and scraping mud off the tires with a stick, a man appeared walking towards Grosii Noi. We asked him about the roads ahead. He replied that the road was about to hit a long and fairly steep climb over the looming hills, and yes, it was still muddy and slick.

After deciding to turn back, we stopped in Grosii Noi to stretch and have some mineral water (apa minerala) by the old wooden church. We were greeted by the most friendly man and his wife, passing through town with their cows pulling a cart filled with hay. Their open glances were followed by the question: “Do you want to take a picture of us? You’ve got to show this out there. This is work no one else does—it’s like a museum here.”

Despite their generous offer, we felt odd about sticking a camera in their faces simply to satisfy our tourist need to capture the sight. Of course, looking back, we should have. The amazing image of the couple with their cart against the backdrop of the wooden church was absolutely memorable. And their way of life, even according to their words was worth documenting. Perhaps next time.

The funniest story for the day was the goose attack! Yes, on the motorcycle! Being spring, the geese in the villages were all coddling and defending their young as they grazed by the road side. As we passed just a bit too close to one of the geese and the little ones, the male (presumably) decided that our presence was simply to threatening. So, in a blink of an eye it was 5 feet up in the air, flapping its wings and attempting to strike with its beak. Ouch! The ever-enduring wife received the brunt of this attack, but thankfully it was over in a flash as the motorcycle sped away. However, the memory of this brief moment will live on… Beware of the geese!

It was a reminder of rural Romania which has seen better times. It was a reminder of the life that exists in places we have never imagined visiting or even heard of. There are no tourist attractions in the village of Grosii Noi. There are no swanky cafes or chic boutiques. There is, however, an amazing place where time seems to have lost its presence, where nature and human presence have found the balance of life. Sadly, such places are slowly wittling away in Romania, as elsewhere, with the young generations moving to the big cities in search of better jobs.

For now, life in the peaceful village of Grosii Noi continues, one day at a time. – BGR & HSR

2006-05-22T04:16:00.000-05:00

Travel brings out sides of us unfamiliar in our own culture. Sides of us that remain dormant until awakened by curiosities hidden in our daily lives.

I have suddenly become obsessed with photographing everything that I lay my eyes upon—animals, houses, trees, people and even a funeral procession! After taking the picture, it dawned on me that I would never intrude into what is considered a person’s private space to photograph their face in the U.S. I would certainly not think about photographing a funeral in the U.S. either. I realize that I suddenly have awakened curiosities in myself and want to simply capture and share every corner of life in Romania.

However, Romanians are generally very reserved people and remain hesitant to the lens and its curiosities. Often in villages and the countryside, we carry the camera around our necks and slow the motorcycle to capture photo ops. This avoids stopping the engine and dismounting for every interesting sight.

Out of respect, sometimes I capture many impressions in our explorations that I can only hope to convey to you via words. - HSR

2006-05-22T04:00:00.000-05:00

MotoExpo – Timisoara 2006
Ever since reading a U.S. motorcycle magazine article last winter that stated that there was no real motorcycle scene in Romania, I have decided to explore the validity of those statements. While clearly the scale of the motorcycling scene in Romania cannot be compared to the U.S. or even the Western European markets, it is certainly an optimistically emerging one. And the similarities between motorcycling movements are more frequent than the differences. Just as motorcycling in the U.S. has spent several decades overcoming cultural biases—only people motorcycling are either greasy mechanic-types or rebels and gangsters—to become more widely accepted, so in Romania, motorcycling is fighting an uphill battle to overcome the image that the only people riding are either poor or shady figures.

The Timisoara bike show was a positive example of market economy at work. The four-day event showcased the latest models of sport, sport touring, off-road adventure and numerous so-called naked bikes offered by Yamaha, Aprilia, Suzuki, Honda, Moto Guzzi, KTM and BMW. The show was extremely well-attended with enthusiasts, some of whom rode their own bikes, others who were clearly shopping for their first or second steed. Given the condition of Romanian roads, the plethora of off-road and enduro motorcycles is hardly surprising. The major, national highways are smooth and curvy enough to accomodate a sport or super-sport bike. But, the real beauty of Romania is found off the beaten path. There, the pavement ends more often than not, and the latest GSX-R600 or R6 with 120+ hp would not get you very far. But, for the speed-hungry, BMW was showing the new K1200GT while Yamaha and Aprilia were highlighting their 1000cc rockets. – BGR

2006-05-20T14:01:00.000-05:00

One afternoon a summer storm came across the city and we experienced a beautiful rainbow. Enjoy! -HSR

2006-05-16T05:55:00.000-05:00

Arad - Siria - Ineu - Moneasa

Our riding loop from Arad to Siria to Ineu to Sebis and finally Moneasa was simply breathtaking, glimpsing of life in Romania in the villages, working of the farmlands, and life returning to the once state-owned vineyards.

Siria has become a favorite hiking spot for us with every visit to Romania. The ruins of the Siria fortress are popular for summer picnics on the hillside and offer spectacular views of the plains, with vineyards dotting the hillsides.

Entering the town of Ineu, we were greeted by the impressive Delphi facility. Ineu was once home to one of Romania’s infamous orphanages.

In the resort town of Moneasa, my husband insisted on exploring a bit offroad. We took a dirt road about 6 miles up the side of the mountain and met a lumber tractor and handful of workers repairing the road. At the sight of the motorcycle, the workers stopped from their work with amused expressions—were we really going to attempt to cross the soft, unstable, fresh pile of sand they had just laid across? Their comment with a smile was Drum Bun (Bon Voyage – literally "Good Road")

After our efforts, we were greeted with expansive, mountain views and the sound of the wind through the pines. We could see in the far distance an old minibus parked by a shepherd tending his sheep. The area is also active with rock and marble quarrying as well as logging. The downhill ride proved pleasant with the afternoon sunlight gently streaming through the trees.

We found it hard to imagine a better way to spend a weekday! It was a memorable journey exploring the Codru-Moma Mountains, and we hope to enjoy a few more. As they say with the Kentucky lottery, “Somebody’s gonna win, might as well be you!” Well, we say—Somebody’s gotta do this job, might as well be us! – BGR & HSR

2006-05-15T08:21:00.000-05:00

Arad - Sannicolaul Mare - Jimbolia - Timisoara

Our riding loop from Arad to Sannicolau Mare to Jimbolia and finally to Timisoara would seem less than spectacular to most riders. And that could be true at a first glance. The view for miles is of nothing but the wide open plains with frequent smells of agriculture and one small village after another.

The pleasant square in Sannicolaul Mare was a perfect break. This city is near the Hungarian border and is a slow hum of activity. It was the birthplace of the Hungarian composer, Bela Bartok and was once a thriving gold town.

As we moved on toward Jimbolia the poverty and economic depression became felt. Several towns which were thriving during communism have become mere shadows of their golden past. The town of Jimbolia is a perfect example. It is about 3 km from the border with Yugoslavia. During communism it was a manufacturing center producing shoes and construction supplies (roof tiles). Yet as we passed through town, none of the dreary looking facilities spoke of any economic life. Rather, they seemed stuck in a dusty past, unable to mime the least gesture.

Other than the adorable two little boys waving and blowing kisses to us, the other highlight was the endless fields of yellow flowers. Apparently, these flowers are harvested to make industrial oil. - HSR & BGR

2006-05-12T15:57:00.000-05:00

May 1st was an interesting day in Romania. It was Labor Day! Businesses were closed. People flocked to the forests and rivers to enjoy time with friends and family. Some shared a picnic by the river while others, camped in the foothills of the Carpathians or hiked the ruins of Deva.

We spent time with family and reconnected with two very dear friends, Lulu and Marioara in beautiful Hateg. Hateg is heralded as the gateway to Transylvania’s greatest Roman remains and offers spectacular views of the Retezat mountains. There was still snow on the mountains (approximately 2500 meters) on the first of May! This was our first introduction on this journey to the famed Transylvania!

On our return home, we stopped in the old mining town of Deva and the fortress ruins. Whether you choose to climb 300 meters or ride the cable car, the 365 degree views of the Mures Valley are beyond breathtaking! On an interesting side note, the founder and first bishop of the Unitarian Church, David Ferenc (1510-1579) was martyred and imprisoned here.

A beautiful visit into Transylvania with the assurance this will not be our last! - HSR

2006-05-11T00:46:00.000-05:00

It hardly seems possible that May has arrived. Time has an odd way of slowly ticking no matter where we are or what we do to pass it.

Our visit to Arad’s Garden, Arts and Crafts Expo showcased samples of Romanian pottery and handcrafts from around the country. My favorites were the tastes of the old fashioned cookies, Turta Dulce and the homemade candy cane stick.

Topped off the afternoon with a stop for ice cream – and not just any ice cream, but gelato! A pound of flavors from Gelateria Coandi with vanilla (vanilie), chocolate (ciocolata), peach (piersica), berries (fructe de pradure), mint (menta) and coffee (cafea) to name a few!

I am reminded once again of the simple things in life. -HSR

2006-05-09T03:37:00.000-05:00

Have you ever sat still for hours? Much like a fly on the wall, I am often watching and observing without movement or even a word.

Working through the initial discomfort, I am attempting to absorb the feelings of each person I come in contact with. I am watching interactions through body language, eye movement and listening to vocal tones.

Language is truly only one way we communicate with each other. I am learning everyday barriers exist only if we allow them.

I awake everyday and simply ask to have the opportunity to give and to receive…HSR

2006-05-08T02:33:00.000-05:00

A city 50 kilometers away, Timisoara is filled with energy and enthusiasm. It is a bustling university town and fantastic shopping venue. You could walk the downtown for hours strolling through shops and alleyways exploring the City! Or better yet, grab an ice cream (inghetata) or a coffee (cafea) and watch people in one of several Piata (squares).

There is a plethora of shopping with my favorite stores, Kenvelo (young and trendy European clothing), Triumph (number one lingerie producer in the world), Leonardo (shoe store), and several boutiques!

The dining choices are numerous from sidewalk cafes to Italian and Chinese! We recommend a drink at the fashionable Baroque cafe in the Piata Unirii.

Standing at the Piata Victoriei, it is difficult to imagine that more than 100,000 people and an army were here in December 1989. The only remnant of this bloody Revolution for freedom can be seen on the building above McDonalds opposite the Opera House and the square monument with a fountain honoring those who died.

This city will be a favorite spot for relaxing afternoons with family over the next few months. I promise you will undoubtedly see more photos and hear more about Timis County and the city of Timisoara. – HSR

2006-05-08T02:16:00.000-05:00

Arad, Romania will be our home for the next few months. We will springboard to our journeys across Romania from here.

As we walk through my husband’s hometown for miles (or more correctly, kilometers!), I hear Bruce Springsteen’s My Hometown playing in my head. My husband points at the familiar buildings: the former schools, the swimming pool, the theatre, and the ice skating spot near the boardwalk. We weave through old neighborhoods which he navigated with his bicycle, as he shares secret routes through old alleyways with their quiet courtyards and large trees. He shares vividly of the 1989 Revolution. He shares of communism with food rations, lines and fights for bread, the frequent shortage of hot water, and the jeans hawked from western Europe and sold at the flea market under Ceausescu’s reign.

We experience the smells and sounds of the market (piata)! There is everything from woodens to woolens and fruits to vegetables and breads to meats to fresh cheeses and bathroom to automobile supplies! The market is a very special part of Romania for me. It reminds me of my first journey to Romania in the summer of 1996 and also a bit of the old farmer’s markets of my childhood in Vermont.

Then we discover new businesses and restaurants and in a few cases are stopped by old friends who have not seen him in years – it has been more than 13 years since he left home for the States. Those of you who know him…realize that his youthfulness still remains!

Throughout our journey, we will highlight Arad County or post events we have attended in Arad City. Stay tuned! - HSR

2006-05-03T05:30:00.000-05:00

The funny part about shipping the bike by air was that what I expected and what happened did not quite match. I presumed that when Air France Cargo flew the bike, they were going to fly New York to Paris and then Paris to Budapest. Well, that was not the case. The bike certainly logged frequent flyer miles on its flight from JFK to Paris. But once it landed at CDG Airport, it was done flying. From there, Air France Cargo loaded it on a commercial truck and sent it to Linz, Austria. And from Linz the bike was transferred on another truck and hauled to the Budapest Cargo Airport. So, ironically enough, the bike ended up “seeing” more of Europe by the time it landed than we did.

But, that being said, we dropped the bike at JFK on April 5; it cleared customs by April 10th, and shipped out by the 11th of the month. The neat part about Air France Cargo’s system is that one can track the bike’s progress online. The bike arrived in Budapest on April 21st, and we picked it up on April 24th (since the customs and shipping people are not eager to deal with non-essential items on a weekend). An hour and a half of running paperwork back-and-forth from customs to cargo (thankfully within 50 yards of each other), a brief customs inspection of the bike, plus about 40 Euros later (handling and paperwork fees), and we were ready to take possession of the bike.

To my delight, the bike and the spare tires were intact and, other than a thin layer of dust, in good shape.

The folks at Berklay Cargo had done a good job of strapping it down for the trip. And to their credit, they use a good quality aluminum skid and some nice cam straps—worth the money. I hooked-up the battery cables, checked the fluids, and cranked the engine. Without any hesitation, it fired right up—what a relief!

With the help of a friend [a big ‘Thanks’ Mihaly!] we were able to salvage the skid and we took off for a gas station to fill the bike and head for the Romanian border.

The trip to the Romanian border was pleasant if a bit windy. The Hungarian autobahn is a real delight. You have to purchase, however, a highway sticker from a gas station before entering. It costs about $6 for a 4-day period. But, traffic is fairly light and traffic moves at “European” speeds (80-100+ mph). It is quite an experience moving at triple digit speeds and being passed by German sedans (to remain unnamed…he he he) as if stationary. I can see why my friend, Mihaly is eager to purchase a Suzuki Hayabusa.

The autostrada ends at Szeged—a pleasant town about 40 miles from the border, renowned for the Hungarian Paprika. In the next couple of years, the Hungarian government plans to finish the last miles of freeway to the border, so a journey across the country would be as quick or as slow as one would want.

From Szeged it was a quick jaunt to the border. The Hungarian border guards were really chatty and friendly, curious about the bike and its registration. When I presented them the Kentucky registration, the response was somewhat amusing—“This is it?”—as they turned the piece of paper from one side to the other. Clearly, the paper did not measure up in its look and feel to have traveled such a long way. Passports stamped and with nothing to declare, we were off to the Romanian border check point.

The Romanian customs and border patrol folks here were equally curious and pleasant. “You brought the bike from where?” “How much did it cost to fly it? And was that really worth it?” “Nice bike!” Another series of stamps in the passports and a wave later, and we were riding the bike into Romania. The bike had finally arrived at its destination!

So, for those of you reading this blog who may be interested in a similar journey to Europe, and who may ask the question “was the whole shipping process worth it?” I can answer “Yes, IF.” IF you plan to stay longer than 2-4 weeks and IF you want to ride YOUR bike and IF your bike is paid for (you may not be able to clear US customs if you have a lien) and IF you have the funds then by all means ship it. Otherwise, you may be better off renting a bike in Europe—and nowadays you have your pick, from Harleys, BMWs, Hondas, Kawasakis to Aprilias and Triumphs.

If you plan to ship to Europe or otherwise, good resources for shipping companies would be WebBikeWorld (excellent bike-centered site), as well as Berklay Cargo (ships out of JFK anywhere in Europe) and Warren Motorcycle Transport (ships out of several US airports to Germany, mainly).

2006-05-02T10:54:00.000-05:00

With the motorcycle secured, it was time to address the shipping situation. On this end, the international options are few and far between. It boiled down to a handful of companies that can fly a motorcycle over to Europe, and the cost is not particularly easy to digest. However, if you want to ship the bike, it can certainly be done. I had my pick of airports—Atlanta, Chicago, New York’s JFK, and Montreal, based on the companies that I contacted. While Atlanta would have been the closest (and warmest in March), I also had to consider the destination airport. Depending on the shipper and the airline it contracts with, you can be restricted to major cities within one country (Lufthansa pretty much flies only to Germany), or you can have it delivered to any major airport in Europe. So, because Germany would still put me about 10 hours from the destination, I decided to use Berklay Cargo, out of New York City. They were the only shipping company who would fly the bike anywhere in Europe that I wanted.

For me, of course, the only problem was getting the bike to New York City. The Berklay folks offered to pick-up the bike, haul it to JFK, and ship it on from there. But this would have added an additional 2 weeks. So, I decided that 45F degrees in early April was no longer an inconvenience, but rather an adventure to be enjoyed. Well, sort of…

On April 5, with my wife in the chase vehicle, I took off for New York City. I had checked the weather, and it was going to be low 40s, maybe a few spots along the way in the 50s. With layers upon layers of warm clothing, I figured that the 15-hour trip would be manageable. As luck would have it, the first day it turned out to be sunny. Crossing into West Virginia brought a smile to my face, as I looked forward to the nice sweepers on both I-64 E and I-79 N. And, indeed, the state proved to be a delight, even though I spent all the time on freeways—not the most intriguing part of motorcycling.

Early afternoon brought Maryland and another few stretches of pleasant slab on I-68 E.

By late afternoon and into early evening, we reached Pennsylvania. We stopped in Harrisburg for the night, and enjoyed a pleasant dinner and a warm bed.

Next morning we rose bright and early at 7 a.m., only to look out the window and see…well, of course, SNOW!!! My thought was, “Great! I need a snowmobile to get to NYC.” A prompt check of the weather channel and local news and it was evident we were not going anywhere in a hurry—it was 31F. So, almost relieved I jumped back in bed and took a two-hour morning nap. By 9:30 a.m., after a shower and breakfast, the sun was shining, the roads were clearing up, and even though still quite chilly, it was bearable to ride.

We left Harrisburg at 10 a.m. and took I-78 E towards New Jersey. About an hour into the ride, it was obvious that the snow storm that had hit Harrisburg earlier that morning, was making its way eastward toward NYC. We were simply following in its footsteps.

Due to the cold temps, I had to stop every hour, get in the car for a few minutes and crank the heater on high to defrost my fingers. The rest of my body felt quite comfortable, but the insulated gloves were not quite up to the low temperatures.

When we arrived in New Jersey, the sun was still shining. So, I thought—“OK, this is not too bad; it’s cold, but I can handle the ride as long as the sun’s up. And it looks as though, we may have escaped the snow storm.” Boy, was I ever optimistic.

About 30 miles outside of Newark, the skies turned grey and ominous and, sure enough, it started snowing. This was not exactly my idea of fun. At this point, the temps dropped and as I was keeping pace with traffic, I started questioning my sanity and the very reason for this trip. “Would the extra $500 been worth shipping it? Yeah, but it would have cost me an additional 2 weeks. And of course, brave road warrior, don’t forget about the adventure—this is supposed to be adventurous, a story for the grand-kids. Nice, but I don’t even have children, let alone grand-children, and who cares about their stories—I can’t feel my fingers!!!”

Newark was bleak, milky, cold and foggy. I imagined it to be the exact image of London during Charles Dickens’s time. Or, why not, Newark during our times…steel bridges, narrow lanes, snow… and an idiot on a motorcycle. I did catch a few glances from hurried drivers—clearly wondering what was this fool doing on a two-wheeled contraption in this weather. And the snow kept coming. I was glad for the traffic for it kept the road surface wet and prevented the snow from sticking. By time we reached Holland Tunnel, the snow was steady.

The tunnel was a pleasant experience, with the temperature underground significantly warmer. I thought, “Wow, this is great, I get a few moments of warm air down here.” In the stream of traffic I even had time to crack a smile. The speed limit in the tunnel is 35 mph. But of course, this being New York, the flow of traffic was moving 55 mph or better.

And then I emerged into Manhattan. What fun! I had been to NYC before, but mainly during the summer or the fall. This was a completely different experience—the motorcycle, the snow, the crazy traffic. For a few brief moments I tried to absorb it all. But, the pace of traffic, the taxis and all the pedestrians brought me back to the immediacy of the situation—we need to find the bridge into Brooklyn so we can reach JFK.

After crossing the Manhattan Bridge, we merged with I-280 and the madness of trucks, buses, cabs, and limos, all trying to get somewhere. From there, the ride to Berklay Cargo’s shipping warehouse was rather eventful and not lacking in heart-stopping moments. Slick roads, high speed, traffic and lots of braking, as any motorcyclist can imagine, make for quite a ride. Nonetheless, by two o’clock we arrived. I cleaned the bike and prepped it for shipping—disconnect the battery cables and tape them, ensure there’s less than a quarter of gas in the tank and sign all the paperwork that the folks at Berklay had gotten ready. I was tired and worn-out, but looking back, it was certainly a trip to remember. The following few days in Vermont were certainly pleasant.

At this point, my wife and I were ready to follow our bike and cross the Atlantic.

--BGR

2006-04-30T05:52:00.000-05:00

Reflections from the past month and a half…

My husband considered the purchases for the motorcycle. I thought about the personal items not as easily accessible in Romania as at our local Walmart, like a First Aid kit, compass, flashlight, zip ties, duct tape, mosquito spray, and sunscreen to name a few. However, over the past two weeks, we recognized we had prepared for the Romania which may still exist in the rural areas, but certainly is no longer true in the cities. Praktiker, Metro, and Real carry these products and much more!

But truly for me, leaving work was to be the most difficult. The realization of life without a job, without a network of friends, without a car, without a paycheck, without a computer, without a cell phone, without a credit card, without insurance, and without housing bills has been incomprehensible for me most days. Our life of things seemed inconsequential. They were simply boxed and labeled – all tucked neatly into approximately 10 x 10 square feet of space.

I quickly was faced with the idea that I had NO idea where tomorrow and the future would take me. Had I always been in complete control of my environment? Was work just an artificial pretense without understanding my real interests and real self?

Yes, I was trading in my very comfortable existence with a job, an apartment and my Ann Taylor pant suits, Brooks Brothers dress shirts, and Danskos along with the office and travel lifestyle that I had grown so very accustomed to. Isn’t this just an American way to express our image? We brand everything! Everything we wear! Everything we experience!

I was willingly exchanging all of this for what? My new style would be practical and simple. I would wear a motorcycle jacket and pants, jeans, bandanas, and boots. My only certainty in a day for months would be riding on a motorcycle. Home would become truly the plaque that my grandmother cross-stitched for me: HOME IS WHERE THE HEART IS.

My office is the space I am in today. My travel is where it takes me often without being able to understand anything around me. I am simply experiencing things through sights and sounds. – HSR

2006-04-28T07:07:00.000-05:00

The past two months feel like a blur—a mad dash to cross all Ts and dot all Is, while reminding ourselves that this is supposed to be enjoyable. And now that we’re here I believe a recap is in order.

When the idea first surfaced—a motorcycle guide to Romania—we were excited. However, as we allowed the abstract thoughts to settle into everyday pragmatism, it became obvious that we had a host of questions to answer: when, how, where, what? If we were to create a motorcycling guide to Romania, what format should it have? The question was answered rather quickly—it should be easily accessible, therefore it would be online. If we were to ride through Romania and document the roads, the attractions and the people, when should we do it? With a continental temperate climate and four distinct seasons, Romania is better suited for moto exploration during late spring, summer and early fall. So we decided to start around the first part of April and allow ourselves around 4-5 months to explore and experience the country.

The next big question was in regard to the motorcycle. When we decided to plan the trip, I was riding a ’98 Honda VFR800, a fantastic bike to be sure, but not one I was convinced would be well suited to Romanian roads. With only about 200-250 miles of freeway (motorway for the Brits, autobahn for the Germans, and autostrada for the Italians), Romania possesses a wealth of twisty 2-lane roads. However, the quality of these roads varies greatly, from fairly smooth, high-speed European-ranked highways crossing the country to gravel and dirt country roads connecting small towns. While a VFR is quite a versatile motorcycle for most touring situations, a rutted, pot-holed forest road in the mountains is not exactly its natural habitat.

So, despite visions of high-speed moto nirvana on the back of a sport bike, I decided it was wiser to seek alternate solutions—namely a different bike. At this juncture, it is worth noting that I realized that I had several options regarding the bike—buying a bike in the US and shipping it (seemed the costlier and more involved choice), buying a bike in Europe and registering it there, or renting a bike in Europe. Based on the length of our journey and the going rental rates, the third choice fell out of favor quickly. That left the other two—buying there or buying here and shipping. A quick tally of European prices (which are markedly higher across the board), import taxes, Value-Added Taxes (VAT—similar to the sales tax in the US) which run at about 20%, led to the conclusion that a bike purchased in Europe would cost anywhere from $2,000 to $5,000 more than a similar one in the US.

That was a fairly large difference to swallow. So, I set about to investigate the cost of the first option, namely purchasing a US bike and shipping it over. This also seemed the more exciting and adventurous path to take. So, off I went into the vast reaches of the Internet to research a suitable motorcycle for this journey. It was clear that for the two of us we needed something that was comfortable, capable of handling a variety of terrain and surfaces while hauling a good deal of luggage. The criteria ruled out most sport bikes since few of them are comfortable enough for long days in the saddle, and pot holes, rough asphalt and gravel are not particularly easily navigable on stiff suspensions and high-speed tires. Cruisers were also ruled out based on weight, height and maneuverability—too heavy, too low and too cumbersome.

Luckily for us, the moto industry, in its pursuit of higher revenue from market segmentation, has created a special segment for folks like us—the Adventure Touring motorcycles. And this segment is well represented by some interesting and highly capable machines, from the iconic BMW R1200 GS (former 1150GS) which garnered the 2005 Bike of the Year, to the enduring Triumph Tiger, to the Aprilia Caponord, then on to the KTM 950 Adventure and even the Suzuki V-Strom 1000. The segment is growing and expanding in the US, after years of documented success in Europe. Incidentally, when I initially looked at purchasing a bike in Europe, I was astounded at the large number and variety of touring motorcycles—it is clear that Europeans love adventure motorcycles and travel. Also in another side note, I looked at models with smaller engines (BMW F650GS, Aprilia Pegaso, Suzuki V-Strom 650, Honda Transalp 650). But, with two people on board along with full cases of luggage, steep mountain roads would have likely seemed really steep and really long. So, I went with the big bore bikes.

At this point I narrowed the search to the five bikes mentioned above. The realization that the Aprilias used a modified Suzuki V-twin for some of their models despite its higher price, dropped it out of the running. The KTM, while highly capable, proved a really tall mount. And despite its wonderful reputation and numerous victories in the grueling Paris-Dakar competition, the BMW was a bit too expensive. Which left me with the Tiger and the V-Strom. A few weeks’ worth of research and many hours spent on eBay Motors and CycleTrader coupled with several visits to dealerships yielded a clear winner—the Suzuki V-Strom. The combination of a versatile motor, an aluminum frame, a comfortable riding position, and the optional hard bags made the lowest-in-class price seem even more exciting.

After a couple of weeks perusing motorcycle listings and yo-yoing back and forth between new and used, I found a 2004 V-Strom with 3,000 miles and a full set of hard bags from a private seller in Columbus, OH. Lacking a pick-up truck, I tried other venues, such as renting a van or a truck. But, of course, why would things be so easy? Vans had mileage restrictions, rental trucks had bed liners and lacked cargo hooks, and towing a trailer with any rental pick-up truck was out of the question, as several rental company reps quickly and pointedly informed me. This left me with the obvious choice of riding the bike back for the 6-hour trip. Under most circumstances, this would be a great opportunity. Yet, this being early March, with temperatures hovering ‘generously’ around 37-42 degrees Fahrenheit, the riding option was not quite warmly greeted. A telephone conversation with the owner detailing the fact that in Columbus it was snowing that day reassured me that my intent was misguided at best. But, with no alternatives in sight, my wife and I drove to Ohio on a Sunday and I rode the bike back home. And what a ride it turned out to be—sunny in Columbus, cloudy in Cincinnati, raining in Northern Kentucky, and a half hour of hail in Louisville, followed by more rain further south. At the end of the six-hour trip I knew I had chosen the right bike for this trip. It felt comfortable, sure-footed, and predictable. And side-by-side with my VFR it was a fairly good looker as well.

In the next post I’ll cover the shipping adventure. Stay Tuned!

--BGR

2006-04-15T06:55:00.000-05:00

The dawn of the journey...

I awaken to the sunrise and a few moments of quietness in the place that has become home. This place has filled us with love and laughter and hope, reminding us that true friendship is the one true beauty in this world.

I recognize perhaps for the first time the uncertainty of the days ahead...I am reminded that my husband made his journey more than thirteen years ago to the United States - alone and with one suitcase. I have him and his family and a special organization to serve plus five suitcases!

Thank you to those who love us and have given to us so freely each in their own way to make this journey possible. You make this journey together with us...

Today I am reminded how wonderful it is to be alive! To feel exhiliration...to feel awareness of the experiences unfolding...

Where do we start our journeys? What is the journey that each of us dreams? - HSR

2006-04-07T17:09:00.000-05:00

Little did we know over eleven years ago when we met that we would be embarking on this journey together.

It all began a few days after Christmas 2005 in the living room of my family home in Vermont. "Why don't we go to Romania and motorcycle for the summer?" With my husband's immediate response, I knew this idea had taken flight! For the next few weeks, every evening even into the early morning hours, we discussed and drafted plans as to how we could make this a reality.

How? Motorcycling seemed like the perfect choice for this adventure. Motorcycling has become my husband's passion. We also discovered that there is little information for motorcyclists about Romania's scenic roads, sights and attractions.

What did we need for the trip? A touring motorcycle, waterproof gear, maintenance tools, etc.

Why was this trip important to us? My husband had spent the first half of his life in Romania and wanted to share his native country with me. With the impending arrival of Romania into the European Union in 2007, the country is poised to be shared with the global community.

Where should we focus our travels? We determined our preliminary schedule to be focused in Romania as well as traveling in Europe visiting friends.

When should we go? Spring and summer fit perfectly with our schedules and with the activities throughout the villages and cities in Romania.

The first important step to discovering a dream is to allow it out of the unconsciousness and to share it! -HSR

2006-03-31T20:49:00.000-06:00

The journey of a lifetime begins with the first step.
Today is our first step.