Reflections from the past month and a half…
My husband considered the purchases for the motorcycle. I thought about the personal items not as easily accessible in Romania as at our local Walmart, like a First Aid kit, compass, flashlight, zip ties, duct tape, mosquito spray, and sunscreen to name a few. However, over the past two weeks, we recognized we had prepared for the Romania which may still exist in the rural areas, but certainly is no longer true in the cities. Praktiker, Metro, and Real carry these products and much more!
But truly for me, leaving work was to be the most difficult. The realization of life without a job, without a network of friends, without a car, without a paycheck, without a computer, without a cell phone, without a credit card, without insurance, and without housing bills has been incomprehensible for me most days. Our life of things seemed inconsequential. They were simply boxed and labeled – all tucked neatly into approximately 10 x 10 square feet of space.
I quickly was faced with the idea that I had NO idea where tomorrow and the future would take me. Had I always been in complete control of my environment? Was work just an artificial pretense without understanding my real interests and real self?
Yes, I was trading in my very comfortable existence with a job, an apartment and my Ann Taylor pant suits, Brooks Brothers dress shirts, and Danskos along with the office and travel lifestyle that I had grown so very accustomed to. Isn’t this just an American way to express our image? We brand everything! Everything we wear! Everything we experience!
I was willingly exchanging all of this for what? My new style would be practical and simple. I would wear a motorcycle jacket and pants, jeans, bandanas, and boots. My only certainty in a day for months would be riding on a motorcycle. Home would become truly the plaque that my grandmother cross-stitched for me: HOME IS WHERE THE HEART IS.
My office is the space I am in today. My travel is where it takes me often without being able to understand anything around me. I am simply experiencing things through sights and sounds. – HSR
Sunday, April 30, 2006
Friday, April 28, 2006
The past two months feel like a blur—a mad dash to cross all Ts and dot all Is, while reminding ourselves that this is supposed to be enjoyable. And now that we’re here I believe a recap is in order.
When the idea first surfaced—a motorcycle guide to Romania—we were excited. However, as we allowed the abstract thoughts to settle into everyday pragmatism, it became obvious that we had a host of questions to answer: when, how, where, what? If we were to create a motorcycling guide to Romania, what format should it have? The question was answered rather quickly—it should be easily accessible, therefore it would be online. If we were to ride through Romania and document the roads, the attractions and the people, when should we do it? With a continental temperate climate and four distinct seasons, Romania is better suited for moto exploration during late spring, summer and early fall. So we decided to start around the first part of April and allow ourselves around 4-5 months to explore and experience the country.
The next big question was in regard to the motorcycle. When we decided to plan the trip, I was riding a ’98 Honda VFR800, a fantastic bike to be sure, but not one I was convinced would be well suited to Romanian roads. With only about 200-250 miles of freeway (motorway for the Brits, autobahn for the Germans, and autostrada for the Italians), Romania possesses a wealth of twisty 2-lane roads. However, the quality of these roads varies greatly, from fairly smooth, high-speed European-ranked highways crossing the country to gravel and dirt country roads connecting small towns. While a VFR is quite a versatile motorcycle for most touring situations, a rutted, pot-holed forest road in the mountains is not exactly its natural habitat.
So, despite visions of high-speed moto nirvana on the back of a sport bike, I decided it was wiser to seek alternate solutions—namely a different bike. At this juncture, it is worth noting that I realized that I had several options regarding the bike—buying a bike in the US and shipping it (seemed the costlier and more involved choice), buying a bike in Europe and registering it there, or renting a bike in Europe. Based on the length of our journey and the going rental rates, the third choice fell out of favor quickly. That left the other two—buying there or buying here and shipping. A quick tally of European prices (which are markedly higher across the board), import taxes, Value-Added Taxes (VAT—similar to the sales tax in the US) which run at about 20%, led to the conclusion that a bike purchased in Europe would cost anywhere from $2,000 to $5,000 more than a similar one in the US.
That was a fairly large difference to swallow. So, I set about to investigate the cost of the first option, namely purchasing a US bike and shipping it over. This also seemed the more exciting and adventurous path to take. So, off I went into the vast reaches of the Internet to research a suitable motorcycle for this journey. It was clear that for the two of us we needed something that was comfortable, capable of handling a variety of terrain and surfaces while hauling a good deal of luggage. The criteria ruled out most sport bikes since few of them are comfortable enough for long days in the saddle, and pot holes, rough asphalt and gravel are not particularly easily navigable on stiff suspensions and high-speed tires. Cruisers were also ruled out based on weight, height and maneuverability—too heavy, too low and too cumbersome.
Luckily for us, the moto industry, in its pursuit of higher revenue from market segmentation, has created a special segment for folks like us—the Adventure Touring motorcycles. And this segment is well represented by some interesting and highly capable machines, from the iconic BMW R1200 GS (former 1150GS) which garnered the 2005 Bike of the Year, to the enduring Triumph Tiger, to the Aprilia Caponord, then on to the KTM 950 Adventure and even the Suzuki V-Strom 1000. The segment is growing and expanding in the US, after years of documented success in Europe. Incidentally, when I initially looked at purchasing a bike in Europe, I was astounded at the large number and variety of touring motorcycles—it is clear that Europeans love adventure motorcycles and travel. Also in another side note, I looked at models with smaller engines (BMW F650GS, Aprilia Pegaso, Suzuki V-Strom 650, Honda Transalp 650). But, with two people on board along with full cases of luggage, steep mountain roads would have likely seemed really steep and really long. So, I went with the big bore bikes.
At this point I narrowed the search to the five bikes mentioned above. The realization that the Aprilias used a modified Suzuki V-twin for some of their models despite its higher price, dropped it out of the running. The KTM, while highly capable, proved a really tall mount. And despite its wonderful reputation and numerous victories in the grueling Paris-Dakar competition, the BMW was a bit too expensive. Which left me with the Tiger and the V-Strom. A few weeks’ worth of research and many hours spent on eBay Motors and CycleTrader coupled with several visits to dealerships yielded a clear winner—the Suzuki V-Strom. The combination of a versatile motor, an aluminum frame, a comfortable riding position, and the optional hard bags made the lowest-in-class price seem even more exciting.
After a couple of weeks perusing motorcycle listings and yo-yoing back and forth between new and used, I found a 2004 V-Strom with 3,000 miles and a full set of hard bags from a private seller in Columbus, OH. Lacking a pick-up truck, I tried other venues, such as renting a van or a truck. But, of course, why would things be so easy? Vans had mileage restrictions, rental trucks had bed liners and lacked cargo hooks, and towing a trailer with any rental pick-up truck was out of the question, as several rental company reps quickly and pointedly informed me. This left me with the obvious choice of riding the bike back for the 6-hour trip. Under most circumstances, this would be a great opportunity. Yet, this being early March, with temperatures hovering ‘generously’ around 37-42 degrees Fahrenheit, the riding option was not quite warmly greeted. A telephone conversation with the owner detailing the fact that in Columbus it was snowing that day reassured me that my intent was misguided
at best. But, with no alternatives in sight, my wife and I drove to Ohio on a Sunday and I rode the bike back home. And what a ride it turned out to be—sunny in Columbus, cloudy in Cincinnati, raining in Northern Kentucky, and a half hour of hail in Louisville, followed by more rain further south. At the end of the six-hour trip I knew I had chosen the right bike for this trip. It felt comfortable, sure-footed, and predictable. And side-by-side with my VFR it was a fairly good looker as well.
In the next post I’ll cover the shipping adventure. Stay Tuned!
--BGR
When the idea first surfaced—a motorcycle guide to Romania—we were excited. However, as we allowed the abstract thoughts to settle into everyday pragmatism, it became obvious that we had a host of questions to answer: when, how, where, what? If we were to create a motorcycling guide to Romania, what format should it have? The question was answered rather quickly—it should be easily accessible, therefore it would be online. If we were to ride through Romania and document the roads, the attractions and the people, when should we do it? With a continental temperate climate and four distinct seasons, Romania is better suited for moto exploration during late spring, summer and early fall. So we decided to start around the first part of April and allow ourselves around 4-5 months to explore and experience the country.
The next big question was in regard to the motorcycle. When we decided to plan the trip, I was riding a ’98 Honda VFR800, a fantastic bike to be sure, but not one I was convinced would be well suited to Romanian roads. With only about 200-250 miles of freeway (motorway for the Brits, autobahn for the Germans, and autostrada for the Italians), Romania possesses a wealth of twisty 2-lane roads. However, the quality of these roads varies greatly, from fairly smooth, high-speed European-ranked highways crossing the country to gravel and dirt country roads connecting small towns. While a VFR is quite a versatile motorcycle for most touring situations, a rutted, pot-holed forest road in the mountains is not exactly its natural habitat.So, despite visions of high-speed moto nirvana on the back of a sport bike, I decided it was wiser to seek alternate solutions—namely a different bike. At this juncture, it is worth noting that I realized that I had several options regarding the bike—buying a bike in the US and shipping it (seemed the costlier and more involved choice), buying a bike in Europe and registering it there, or renting a bike in Europe. Based on the length of our journey and the going rental rates, the third choice fell out of favor quickly. That left the other two—buying there or buying here and shipping. A quick tally of European prices (which are markedly higher across the board), import taxes, Value-Added Taxes (VAT—similar to the sales tax in the US) which run at about 20%, led to the conclusion that a bike purchased in Europe would cost anywhere from $2,000 to $5,000 more than a similar one in the US.
That was a fairly large difference to swallow. So, I set about to investigate the cost of the first option, namely purchasing a US bike and shipping it over. This also seemed the more exciting and adventurous path to take. So, off I went into the vast reaches of the Internet to research a suitable motorcycle for this journey. It was clear that for the two of us we needed something that was comfortable, capable of handling a variety of terrain and surfaces while hauling a good deal of luggage. The criteria ruled out most sport bikes since few of them are comfortable enough for long days in the saddle, and pot holes, rough asphalt and gravel are not particularly easily navigable on stiff suspensions and high-speed tires. Cruisers were also ruled out based on weight, height and maneuverability—too heavy, too low and too cumbersome.
Luckily for us, the moto industry, in its pursuit of higher revenue from market segmentation, has created a special segment for folks like us—the Adventure Touring motorcycles. And this segment is well represented by some interesting and highly capable machines, from the iconic BMW R1200 GS (former 1150GS) which garnered the 2005 Bike of the Year, to the enduring Triumph Tiger, to the Aprilia Caponord, then on to the KTM 950 Adventure and even the Suzuki V-Strom 1000. The segment is growing and expanding in the US, after years of documented success in Europe. Incidentally, when I initially looked at purchasing a bike in Europe, I was astounded at the large number and variety of touring motorcycles—it is clear that Europeans love adventure motorcycles and travel. Also in another side note, I looked at models with smaller engines (BMW F650GS, Aprilia Pegaso, Suzuki V-Strom 650, Honda Transalp 650). But, with two people on board along with full cases of luggage, steep mountain roads would have likely seemed really steep and really long. So, I went with the big bore bikes.
At this point I narrowed the search to the five bikes mentioned above. The realization that the Aprilias used a modified Suzuki V-twin for some of their models despite its higher price, dropped it out of the running. The KTM, while highly capable, proved a really tall mount. And despite its wonderful reputation and numerous victories in the grueling Paris-Dakar competition, the BMW was a bit too expensive. Which left me with the Tiger and the V-Strom. A few weeks’ worth of research and many hours spent on eBay Motors and CycleTrader coupled with several visits to dealerships yielded a clear winner—the Suzuki V-Strom. The combination of a versatile motor, an aluminum frame, a comfortable riding position, and the optional hard bags made the lowest-in-class price seem even more exciting.
After a couple of weeks perusing motorcycle listings and yo-yoing back and forth between new and used, I found a 2004 V-Strom with 3,000 miles and a full set of hard bags from a private seller in Columbus, OH. Lacking a pick-up truck, I tried other venues, such as renting a van or a truck. But, of course, why would things be so easy? Vans had mileage restrictions, rental trucks had bed liners and lacked cargo hooks, and towing a trailer with any rental pick-up truck was out of the question, as several rental company reps quickly and pointedly informed me. This left me with the obvious choice of riding the bike back for the 6-hour trip. Under most circumstances, this would be a great opportunity. Yet, this being early March, with temperatures hovering ‘generously’ around 37-42 degrees Fahrenheit, the riding option was not quite warmly greeted. A telephone conversation with the owner detailing the fact that in Columbus it was snowing that day reassured me that my intent was misguided
at best. But, with no alternatives in sight, my wife and I drove to Ohio on a Sunday and I rode the bike back home. And what a ride it turned out to be—sunny in Columbus, cloudy in Cincinnati, raining in Northern Kentucky, and a half hour of hail in Louisville, followed by more rain further south. At the end of the six-hour trip I knew I had chosen the right bike for this trip. It felt comfortable, sure-footed, and predictable. And side-by-side with my VFR it was a fairly good looker as well.In the next post I’ll cover the shipping adventure. Stay Tuned!
--BGR
Saturday, April 15, 2006
The dawn of the journey...
I awaken to the sunrise and a few moments of quietness in the place that has become home. This place has filled us with love and laughter and hope, reminding us that true friendship is the one true beauty in this world.
I recognize perhaps for the first time the uncertainty of the days ahead...I am reminded that my husband made his journey more than thirteen years ago to the United States - alone and with one suitcase. I have him and his family and a special organization to serve plus five suitcases!
Thank you to those who love us and have given to us so freely each in their own way to make this journey possible. You make this journey together with us...
Today I am reminded how wonderful it is to be alive! To feel exhiliration...to feel awareness of the experiences unfolding...
Where do we start our journeys? What is the journey that each of us dreams? - HSR
I awaken to the sunrise and a few moments of quietness in the place that has become home. This place has filled us with love and laughter and hope, reminding us that true friendship is the one true beauty in this world.
I recognize perhaps for the first time the uncertainty of the days ahead...I am reminded that my husband made his journey more than thirteen years ago to the United States - alone and with one suitcase. I have him and his family and a special organization to serve plus five suitcases!
Thank you to those who love us and have given to us so freely each in their own way to make this journey possible. You make this journey together with us...
Today I am reminded how wonderful it is to be alive! To feel exhiliration...to feel awareness of the experiences unfolding...
Where do we start our journeys? What is the journey that each of us dreams? - HSR
Friday, April 07, 2006
Little did we know over eleven years ago when we met that we would be embarking on this journey together.
It all began a few days after Christmas 2005 in the living room of my family home in Vermont. "Why don't we go to Romania and motorcycle for the summer?" With my husband's immediate response, I knew this idea had taken flight! For the next few weeks, every evening even into the early morning hours, we discussed and drafted plans as to how we could make this a reality.
How? Motorcycling seemed like the perfect choice for this adventure. Motorcycling has become my husband's passion. We also discovered that there is little information for motorcyclists about Romania's scenic roads, sights and attractions.
What did we need for the trip? A touring motorcycle, waterproof gear, maintenance tools, etc.
Why was this trip important to us? My husband had spent the first half of his life in Romania and wanted to share his native country with me. With the impending arrival of Romania into the European Union in 2007, the country is poised to be shared with the global community.
Where should we focus our travels? We determined our preliminary schedule to be focused in Romania as well as traveling in Europe visiting friends.
When should we go? Spring and summer fit perfectly with our schedules and with the activities throughout the villages and cities in Romania.
The first important step to discovering a dream is to allow it out of the unconsciousness and to share it! -HSR
It all began a few days after Christmas 2005 in the living room of my family home in Vermont. "Why don't we go to Romania and motorcycle for the summer?" With my husband's immediate response, I knew this idea had taken flight! For the next few weeks, every evening even into the early morning hours, we discussed and drafted plans as to how we could make this a reality.
How? Motorcycling seemed like the perfect choice for this adventure. Motorcycling has become my husband's passion. We also discovered that there is little information for motorcyclists about Romania's scenic roads, sights and attractions.
What did we need for the trip? A touring motorcycle, waterproof gear, maintenance tools, etc.
Why was this trip important to us? My husband had spent the first half of his life in Romania and wanted to share his native country with me. With the impending arrival of Romania into the European Union in 2007, the country is poised to be shared with the global community.
Where should we focus our travels? We determined our preliminary schedule to be focused in Romania as well as traveling in Europe visiting friends.
When should we go? Spring and summer fit perfectly with our schedules and with the activities throughout the villages and cities in Romania.
The first important step to discovering a dream is to allow it out of the unconsciousness and to share it! -HSR
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