Transfagarasan Highway—Riding the Transylvanian Dragon

Ah…did we ever save the best for last! The entire summer we waited for the snows to disappear from the peaks of the Fagaras Mountains (Romania's tallest), so we could experience the most magnificent road in Romania—the Transfagarasan. It is the highest paved road in the country with the wildest curves, turns and panoramic views. The road lived up to its expectations—it IS a rider's paradise!



The road runs for about 100 kilometers, almost half of which is made up of nothing but hairpins and zigzags, competing with stunning views of the Fagaras Mountains. The road climbs to 2,020 meters at its highest point with several waterfalls springing out and snow still visible in August. The road is shared by backpackers and tourists who, even in August, wear layers of warm clothing against the low temperature—it hovers around zero Celsius (32 Fahrenheit). We were happy to have our fleece-lined riding gear. The road is also used by sheep roaming from one pasture to another on the mountainside.




We approached the road from the north, as the road quality was quite good. As you might suspect, we stopped frequently on our initial ascent—the fresh air, the constantly changing sky, the tall pines and firs, the waterfalls, and the incredible road…

Riding to Balea Lake, the highest point on the road was absolutely amazing. After taking in the breathtaking views and walking on snow cap bordering the lake, we passed through the tunnel heading south.




The tunnel is half a mile long. On the opposite side of the mountain, the road is just as dramatic, but more sinuous in nature. The views are fantastic and the riding experience unique. Several kilometers after the descent, the road quality decreased. We took this opportunity to enjoy a picnic lunch roadside before retracing our route to film. Yes, the ride up the south side and down the north side was captured on film. We look forward to having this available on our website soon!




In celebration of our passenger's birthday, the first snow of the 2006 winter season fell on the Transfagarasan on August 31st! It is well known throughout Romania that the road is open for traffic mainly between June and September. Moto-enthusiasts, if at all possible, we highly recommend you plan your visit to Romania in the summer!



However, the journey is not complete without mentioning the many lives sacrificed in creating this spectacular road. The road was the vision of former dictator, Nicolae Ceausescu. It was built between 1970 and 1974, as a north-to-south crossing at the historical border between Transylvania and Wallachia. It came as a response to the 1968 invasion of Czechoslovakia by the Soviet Union. Ceausescu wanted to ensure quick military access across the mountains in the event the Soviets attempted a similar move into Romania. Consequently, the road was built mainly with military forces, at a high cost both financially and from a human standpoint—roughly 6 million kilograms of dynamite were used on the northern face, and about 40 soldiers lost their lives in building accidents.



Riding the Transfagarasan was an exhilarating experience. Recognizing the sacrifice made to build it was humbling. At the end of the day, we can only enjoy, celebrate and share the road in honor of all those lives who made it possible.



We cannot think of a better way to close our motorcycle journey through Romania. Knowing it was our final riding destination, we took our time to savor every moment. And from the top of the Fagaras Mountains, looking towards the Transylvanian Plateau, the realization finally dawned on us—we have just completed an incredible, life-changing journey! - BGR & HSR

Sunshine greeted us the next morning for our journey into the Izei and Viseu Valleys. The road meanders pleasantly through the forests. As light streams through the trees, it makes for an almost magical ride.



We determined our day’s scenic loop and proceeded south to Sacel. Sacel boasts traditional Romanian pottery. Yet, after several rides through the village in search of a shop, we were about to give up in frustration—we could not locate a shop or a sign. On the second pass through town we finally see the sign—barely big enough to be visible and worn by time. After seeing the poor gravel road and tired of chasing pottery in the midday heat, our driver parks on the main road.

The real story begins with me deciding to walk the 300 meters through the village in search of the Sacel Pottery Shop! Only 300 meters - not bad. But as I walk the 300 meters, another sign with an arrow directs me to proceed another 400 meters. (There was a slight hesitation, but after all I had walked this far!) THEN…farther down the road, another sign and arrow indicate 200 meters up an incline road lined with livestock!



Furious and tired of the heat, I continue determined to locate the pottery. Sigh…I finally see the shop. BUT, upon arrival, it is closed for lunch! I peer inside and in the shop’s courtyard searching for someone. About to leave in utter frustration, I find the doorbell (and am relieved I don’t have to explain to my husband that the walk didn’t provide any treasure). The potter arrives and we have a short, pleasant exchange in Romanian. I browse through the merchandise on display, find a beautiful pot and trek back to the main road to share my adventure!




Meanwhile, our driver has entertained a young boy on a bicycle and a man who had walked through town. As I arrive, he shares part of his conversation, in which the man was marveling at the size of the motorcycle. In fact, he had compared it with his cow, saying it was about as large! A lot of laughter ensued, especially as my husband and the man were discussing the option of actually riding a cow on the main road. The man was clear about his hesitation to ride anything on two wheels, concluding with the remark—to each his own cow!!

Continuing south on 17C, we pause to admire the Rodna Mountains as well as the picturesque countryside and landscapes.



Arriving in dreary Nasaud, we photograph the interesting, if a bit bizarre, sculptures in the center's park.



We headed north on 17D to Sangeorz-Bai and see a sign indicating the road is closed in Valea Mare. Knowing Romanian roads, our driver decides to see how far we can go and believes that the sign has not been taken down since repairs from the extensive spring floods in this area. Enjoying the beautiful weather, we ride without a care through the countryside to Valea Mare where we finally witness several mudslides and forest debris roadside. But the asphalt is still good quality and passable for the motorcycle. However, it is only a few kilometers later and we arrive at a point where the road splits and turns to dirt (and mud from the previous day's rains). "Which way?"



Our driver inquires from the nearby logging workers if the dirt road is passable enroute to the Prislop Pass. They assure him that the next 20 kilometers or so might be a bit muddy but traffic had been going through all day! So we decide to proceed slowly and turn around if need be. Not a word was spoken as our driver navigated around more and more mud and water and potholes and forest debris. The higher the road went, the deeper the ruts became and the muddier the surface. With worn tires and a fully loaded bike, we decided it was wiser to turn around and leave the off-roading for another day. Yes, some off-road tires would have been fantastic.



Realizing we still had bread, vegetables and cheese in the trunk, we enjoyed a picnic past Valea Mare by the rolling Somesul Mare river.



We retraced the 73 kilometers on 17D then headed south on 17C to Bistrita. Bistrita is a bustling market town with several new residences in construction on its outskirts. It is home to the Coroana de Aur ("Golden Crown"), a hotel made famous by Bram Stoker's character, Jonathan Harker who supposedly stayed here. Oddly enough, there was no hotel at the time the book Dracula was published—it was built later. - HSR & BGR

South from Sighet, we begin our journey on DN 18 through the Mara Valley, the heart of Maramures, with the sole purpose to see the renowned wooden churches.



In Berbesti, our rider searches for the steeple of a wooden church only to realize kilometers later, we had passed the ornately carved 300 year old cross. The cross was for travelers to pray for a safe journey. [It is interesting to note that Tuesday was considered an unlucky travel day and night was said to bring out the ghosts and the vampires!]

The next village is Giulesti with its odd "pot trees" in the yards. The purpose is a practical one (with the added bonus of decoration) - to air the pots! We enjoyed a conversation with a woman and her daughter who were curious about our journey on the motorcycle. We also admired the beautiful wooden homes.




We took a very rough gravel road for one kilometer (which felt like miles) to Manastirea Giulesti. The beautiful wooden church (1633) is difficult to find as it is hidden behind a house on the hillside with no signage. Its most unique feature is the remnants of frescoes on the outside wall, similar to those seen on the Bucovina monasteries. We met a Belgian couple with their children and learned of their month-long travels through Hungary, Romania, the Republic of Moldova and Ukraine.




Relieved to be back on the main road, we stopped at the Sat-Sugatag wooden church. Its ornate gate, compact church, wooden cross gravestones, and spacious yard makes this a special destination.



We took an unplanned route twisting through the hills with amazing views of the villages. We do something we have taken so little time during the day to do on this journey - just stop and sit and listen to the simple sounds of the wind and feel the pleasant breeze. How we both wish we could capture time!



With Budesti only four kilometers away, we decided to visit this quaint village. Traditional dress is often worn in this region in everyday life - in particular, the men wear small stray hats that look similar to an inverted straw hat. Budesti's spectacular wooden church (1643) is designated an UNESCO World Heritage site.


We met two men from Borsa who were hauling timber and waiting for their truck engine to cool and inquired of our travels. They recommended a shortcut through the picturesque villages and encouraged our visit to Barsana. Our first stop, we thought was the Barsana Monastery. We soon realized it was a recently constructed church! The locals directed us to a nearby small wooden museum showcasing the wooden treasures of a man who had been featured at the Smithsonian Folk Festival in the 1990s!




Only a few kilometers past the village is the popular Orthodox pilgrimage spot, "the" Barsana Monastery. The landscape and grounds are immaculate. The church stands majestically with its 56-meter steeple. The wooden buildings were built primarily in 1993.





Watching the sunset atop the hillside and surrounded by the quietness, we reflect on the amazing beauty of the Maramures wooden churches. We return to Vadu Izei to enjoy another picnic dinner and evening listening to the village sounds. - HSR & BGR

From Vadu Izei it's a short 7-10 kilometers to Sighetu Marmatiei (known as Sighet). The town is Romania’s northernmost city bordering the Ukraine.

Sighet’s two outstanding landmarks are the prison museum (1997) and the childhood home of Elie Wiesel (2002). The Sighet prison was notorious during communism for its severe mistreatment of about 180 political prisoners held here between 1948 and 1952. These most feared intellectual opponents were given 700 calories a day often dying of starvation. The memorial plaque reads "in memory of the young, intelligent people at the forefront of Romanian intellectual life who were imprisoned because they did not believe in communism and died, through torture, in this odious prison." Elie Wiesel, 1986 Noble Peace Prize winner and writer who coined the term “Holocaust” was born in Sighet (and later deported from here).




The town is fairly pleasant and has a well-stocked supermarket for the road traveler--Artima. We were happy to find bottled water, cheeses, fruits and vegetables for plenty of picnics. We also observed more US license plates here than anywhere else in the country! A good number of Romanians who had emigrated to the US return for vacations and holidays, oftentimes bringing their prized vehicles with them.

Our next stop was Sapanta known for its “Merry Cemetery.” The church’s graveyard is famous for its colorfully painted wooden crosses sharing the deceased story of life and death. Ioan Patras began painting the crosses blue (color of hope and freedom) and adding witty epitaphs in 1935. He even carved and painted his own cross which marks his tomb (1977). The crosses paint a representative picture of the region’s occupations – farmers, mothers, shepherds, weavers, barbers, forest workers, teachers, and soldiers. His apprentice, Dumitru Pop carries on the tradition of making crosses for those villagers who pass – in Patras’ former house and workshop.





Yet the rest of the village doesn’t seem to notice the constant flow of tourists marveling at these unique crosses and carries on with its traditions of weaving, embroidering and living. We enjoyed a conversation with an older man who shared his advice for a long, simple life and inquired about us. He recommended we visit the nearby monastery which boasts the tallest wooden church in Europe and is still in the building process.



While gazing up the 75 meter spire and admiring the magnificent wood carvings and impressive structure, we met Alex from Suceava visiting the Sapanta monastery with his father. Alex is 23 years old and, not uncommon for his age and gender, works much of the year out of the country in Western Europe. His brother is a monk at one of the monasteries in Bucovina. A neat guy with a really neat story.




From Sapanta, we stopped to photograph an interesting modern Catholic Church enroute back to Sighet and caught a man’s attention who inquired about the motorcycle. These interactions remind us how special Romania’s people are--curious, social, engaging and always ready with a story. - BGR & HSR

The largest town in Maramures and the county seat is Baia Mare (Big Mine). The city was known for its gold mines in the 14th and 15th centuries. During Ceausescu's regime, there was a permanent sulphur-dioxide/metal powder smog looming overhead from the metal plants (annually 5 billion cubic meters of gases were emitted). In the 1990s, a new smoke stack was constructed to ease air pollution. Then, in early 2000, a spill from the Aurul gold mine contaminated the water supply of 2.5 million people, devastated ecosystems of rivers, and affected six countries. Cyanide-contaminated water was released from the mine reaching nearby rivers, then the Danube and on to the Black Sea. We noticed the drinking water was still considered unsafe in this area.



We were impressed at Baia Mare's expansive and revitalizing Piata Libertatii with its renovated storefronts and terraces. The 14th century Stephen's Tower is nearby. After relaxing in the afternoon sunshine and making calls for lodging, we headed north to Vadu Izei.




We arrive at Pensiune Dumbrava Minunata, a beautiful wooden guesthouse off the main street on a hillside. The gazebo provided an excellent dinner spot to enjoy the sunset and picnic. – HSR & BGR

We started our trip toward Maramures further south, in the city of Alba Iulia. Aside from its historical significance, Alba Iula (Karlsburg's Weissenberg in German) is not much for the eye as most of its older buildings were bulldozed under Ceausescu with concrete replacements favored. In the heart of Alba Iulia's citadel are the Roman Catholic and Orthodox cathedrals. Several famous Transylvanian princes are buried in the Catholic cathedral. The Orthodox Church (1922) was built for the coronation of King Ferdinand I and Queen Marie (their frescoed portraits are on the rear walls). The 58 meter tall bell tower and gardens are striking. It is also within these 18th century walls that the Act of Unification between Romania and Transylvania was signed (1918).

North from Alba Iula, we passed through wine country and entered the town of Teius. A few kilometers north is the town of Aiud. Aiud (Nagyenyed in Hungarian) has one of the oldest fortresses in Transylvania with its intact walls and eight towers.



A summer rain shower caught us by surprise and fortunately, we were able to immediately pull undercover at a MOL gas station. It was here we met a Romanian rider traveling to Targu Mures for a 5-day rock festival and then on to Sighisoara's medieval festival.



Turda (Torda) is known for its salt mines and gorges. The 13th century mines closed in the 1930s with a portion of the area today used to aid those with respiratory ailments.



Route E60/E81 provides a great scenic road with a winding descent into Cluj-Napoca. Since we had spent time previously in Cluj, we continued north passing the town of Gherla (known for its notorious prison). It was on to Dej with its ominous factories pushing pollutants into the surrounding countryside.



With afternoon temperatures in the upper 80s, we continued north to our destination, Maramures. – BGR & HSR