Friday, September 01, 2006

South from Sighet, we begin our journey on DN 18 through the Mara Valley, the heart of Maramures, with the sole purpose to see the renowned wooden churches.



In Berbesti, our rider searches for the steeple of a wooden church only to realize kilometers later, we had passed the ornately carved 300 year old cross. The cross was for travelers to pray for a safe journey. [It is interesting to note that Tuesday was considered an unlucky travel day and night was said to bring out the ghosts and the vampires!]

The next village is Giulesti with its odd "pot trees" in the yards. The purpose is a practical one (with the added bonus of decoration) - to air the pots! We enjoyed a conversation with a woman and her daughter who were curious about our journey on the motorcycle. We also admired the beautiful wooden homes.




We took a very rough gravel road for one kilometer (which felt like miles) to Manastirea Giulesti. The beautiful wooden church (1633) is difficult to find as it is hidden behind a house on the hillside with no signage. Its most unique feature is the remnants of frescoes on the outside wall, similar to those seen on the Bucovina monasteries. We met a Belgian couple with their children and learned of their month-long travels through Hungary, Romania, the Republic of Moldova and Ukraine.




Relieved to be back on the main road, we stopped at the Sat-Sugatag wooden church. Its ornate gate, compact church, wooden cross gravestones, and spacious yard makes this a special destination.



We took an unplanned route twisting through the hills with amazing views of the villages. We do something we have taken so little time during the day to do on this journey - just stop and sit and listen to the simple sounds of the wind and feel the pleasant breeze. How we both wish we could capture time!



With Budesti only four kilometers away, we decided to visit this quaint village. Traditional dress is often worn in this region in everyday life - in particular, the men wear small stray hats that look similar to an inverted straw hat. Budesti's spectacular wooden church (1643) is designated an UNESCO World Heritage site.


We met two men from Borsa who were hauling timber and waiting for their truck engine to cool and inquired of our travels. They recommended a shortcut through the picturesque villages and encouraged our visit to Barsana. Our first stop, we thought was the Barsana Monastery. We soon realized it was a recently constructed church! The locals directed us to a nearby small wooden museum showcasing the wooden treasures of a man who had been featured at the Smithsonian Folk Festival in the 1990s!




Only a few kilometers past the village is the popular Orthodox pilgrimage spot, "the" Barsana Monastery. The landscape and grounds are immaculate. The church stands majestically with its 56-meter steeple. The wooden buildings were built primarily in 1993.





Watching the sunset atop the hillside and surrounded by the quietness, we reflect on the amazing beauty of the Maramures wooden churches. We return to Vadu Izei to enjoy another picnic dinner and evening listening to the village sounds. - HSR & BGR

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