With the sunsetting, we rode into the small town of Horezu. Horezu is best known for its beautiful pottery and the Brancoveanu monastery which is listed as an UNESCO World Heritage site.

Entering the monastery grounds through the carved pearwood doors and ten-pillared porchway, the focal point was the Great Church built in 1693. Indeed, the Western and Oriental architectural style of Brancoveanu can be witnessed here. We learned that the country’s most prestigious fresco painting school was here in the 17th and 18th centuries. On an interesting note, we were departing when two German motorcyclists arrived in search of lodging. The monastery has 20 rooms available for guests.

Ten kilometers from Horezu was another Brancoveanu-style structure, the Bistrita Monastery (1856). Until the early 80s, the monastery was home to one of the country’s largest schools for handicapped children.

While wooden furniture and wrought-iron items are made in Horezu, it is best known for its pottery.The plates are especially popular with their greys, blues, greens, and burnt yellows. Throughout the region, there are small shops as well as pieces displayed for sale along the roadside in front of homes. Fortunately, we had a bit of space for a few treasures (well wrapped) in the luggage!

After a phone call to a local family listed in our travel book, we arrived at the Draghici Family to spend the evening. We later would learn they had not been taking guests since 2003, but decided to accept us for the evening. Their immediate, gracious hospitality and dinner with appetizer, salad, main entrée and accompanying taste of Moldova wine and homemade cherry liquer was welcomed after a full day’s ride.

To our surprise, the next morning we were greeted with a wonderful breakfast of hard boiled egg, bread, homemade plum jam, butter, and mint tea to ensure plenty of fuel for the long day’s ride ahead of us. – HSR

Our next stop was at the Iron Gates (Portile de Fier). Completed in 1972, the Gates are a massive, concrete dam that generates hydro-electric power. The top of the dam also serves as a road linking the borders of Romania and Serbia. Signage clearly dictated that no photographing was allowed – but the English speaking passenger claimed lack of understanding…

Despite the lack of pedestrian access (in contrast to the Hoover Dam), we took in the remaining views of the Danube and Serbia. The landscape darkened and bore the mar of industrialization.

Continuing into the city of Drobeta Turnu-Severin named the “town of roses” for its beautiful parks, we spent a few moments in the downtown area. The town displayed a clear link to its past—18th and 19th centuries architecture, ornate parks, monuments. Yet, somehow, there was an air of tiredness about the town, a feeling difficult to explain. And the feeling persisted in spite of the beautiful summer day.

We continued into Craiova passing the oil wells and industrial past of Communism. Surrounded by pollution, it would have been easy to keep riding right through Craiova. However, the university downtown was vibrant and bustling with traffic and new storefronts. During the first part of the 20th century, Craiova was a strong francophone city—should you have walked its streets, you would have been hard-pressed to figure out whether you were in France or elsewhere. Between the architecture and the seeming joie de vivre of its citizens, the town displays a character all its own. It is home to Craiova beer. It also boasts a beautiful art museum which houses a selection of Brancusi’s pieces. The museum was supposedly home to a former Polish president and later Ceausescu.

From Craiova we headed to Slatina and took a left on the road that parallels the river Olt. We rode into the Olt Valley skirting spring storms, passing several rural villages, through Dragasani and into Ramnicu Valcea. Ramnicu Valcea is another industrial stronghold. After what seemed to have been the day of industry—from the Iron Gates, to Craiova, to Ramnicu Valcea—we decided that the fresh air of the countryside was clearly needed. So we headed for Horezu, a well-known town. On the way, we stopped in the quiet village of Costesti which boasts the annual Roma Festival. The September festival draws several Romas from across Romania, who generally come either by horse and cart or their vehicle of choice—the Mercedes-Benz. – BGR & HSR

We decided to spend the evening in the resort village of Baile Herculane and located a pleasant home offering a room for approximately 20 USD. From the delightful conversation to fresh strawberries with sugar (a Romanian favorite) to covering the motorcycle with a tarp from the rains, Anghelina welcomed us as family.

Baile Herculane is nestled in the Cerna Valley with its natural springs and renowned sulfur, healing springs. Mt Domogled towers over the town which credits its origins to the legend that Hercules bathed here after a battle and healed his wounds! In the 19th century, Herkulesbad (as it was known then) was frequented by Western European aristocrats and royalty. Today, it is an aging resort with numerous hotels in desperate need of repair and extensive renovations. Yet, its antique charm and sulfur smell still captivate you.

With rains moving into the region, it wasn’t a difficult choice for us to enjoy a day walking, photographing and riding the mountain roads. The forests surrounding the resort have been protected since the early 1930s and provide excellent hiking trails. We also had an additional benefit with our stay in Baile Herculane – the air. Due to the area’s geological composition, the air is said to be healthier to breathe due to its increased negative ionization. - BGR & HSR

After riding through the mountains from Resita to Anina and then on to Oravita, we were in for quite a pleasant surprise when we approached Moldova Noua. Even before reaching the town, we were offered a fantastic panorama of the great Danube. The Danube is the natural border between Romania and both Serbia and Bulgaria. The river has been a natural resource, a navigation route, a tourist attraction, a subject for many songs and poems, and a challenge for centuries.

With only 100 kilometers from Moldova Noua to Orsova, we were confident that we could enjoy the ride along with photographing the scenery – little did we know that it would take us four hours! We took this scenic road not long after a series of floods and terrain slides washed out entire sections. At the time, there were crews strewn about the whole length working on drainage and road repairs. So, we never quite knew what the next bend would bring - we rode on a nice section for a little while, only to be thrown into long stretches with dirt, gravel, bulldozers, and not to mention, potholes.

However, while mindful of the road, we were absolutely taken by the splendid views. The water, the mountains, the lush forests, the road and the perfect weather conspired to create a magical experience. We had to frequently remind ourselves that we were photographing Romania, a country known (if at all) for dingy industrial towns, orphanages and a communist past. Yes, Romania can be a magical experience and a land of breathtaking beauty, charm and enjoyment! We most certainly found what we came here for - and much more.

As many European countries, Romania is a place where past and present coexist, at times awkwardly, at other times pleasantly blended. The rusty, steel border patrol look-out was a reminder of the days when the political system was as much concerned about keeping enemies at bay, as it was busy keeping its people from escaping. Particularly during the 80s, many Romanians lost their lives attempting to swim across the Danube to Serbia, and from there to Western Europe or North America seeking freedom and a better life.

The road’s scenic qualities were comparable to the US Pacific Coast Highway. The contrast was the unspoiled natural beauty not yet given an exclusive price tag. We saw families camping roadside, men fishing on the banks, people riding bicycles from town to town. At the Cazanele Mici gorges, there was even a church squeezed by the side of the road between the rocks—not quite a drive-in religious experience, but quite close to it!

The beauty of this part of the country is only matched by the friendliness of the people. These are open and approachable folks, who seem to have a ready smile and an available moment for a question or a chat. Unlike other parts of Romania we’ve ridden through where only children might wave as we pass, here even adults would wave or nod as we crossed through towns. During a break to stretch and photograph the ruins of Tricula Fortress, we even met the postman of Svinita heading home with his tractor and a double load of hay. In between questions about the bike and our trip, he mentioned that he had an old bike with only 7,000 kilometers on it, that he took out a couple of times a year and enjoyed riding it.

The road is part of the National Park of the Iron Gates which comprises an area of 115,000 hectares. The park boasts a unique flora and fauna that is protected and preserved. Seeing tourists and cars, we happened upon what looked like the Romanian Mount Rushmore! A face carved into the side of a rock on the mountain – King Decebal. Decebal was the last king of the tribes which inhabited the teritorries north of the Danube before Roman conquest. Decebal is celebrated as a hero for valiantly resisting the forces of Emperor Trajan in the 2nd century BC. He was eventually defeated after Trajan comissioned the great architect Apolodor of Damascus to build a bridge across the Danube to carry the Roman troops.

After experiencing the spectacular Cazan Gorges, we rode into Orsova as the sunset was setting. – BGR

Every time we get on the road, there’s a sense of anticipation dominating the early part of the ride. What will we see? What will we experience? How will the roads be? Will we have any surprises? Then, as we ride, some of these questions find answers—OK, the roads are pretty decent so far; the views are quite satisfying and enjoyable. We settle in the rhythm of traffic and the motorcycle. Some roads have lighter traffic allowing us to enjoy a tamer pace unencumbered. Other roads are burdened by logging trucks, commercial tractor trailers, delivery vans, and always-in-a-hurry passenger vehicles. On such a road, it is almost impossible to savor the sights, not to mention the sounds—if you don’t keep up with traffic, you risk being able to read the small company logo on the headlights from the truck behind you that’s about to mount you…… “aha! Hella Hallogen 55 Watts! I’ve always wondered who made those bright and shiny beams…”

The beauty of two-lane roads is that they tend to be more scenic and less monotone. The downside of two-lane roads in Romania is the lack of alternatives, such as divided highways, or freeways. That being said, if the day is sunny, pleasantly warm (underline ‘pleasantly’), and traffic is bearable, it is such a joy to roll through fields, valleys, mountain passes, forests, and simply sense the rhythm of the world around you. With the motorcycle engine humming contently, you can settle enough to smell the fresh grass being mowed as you pass through a village, the scent of the cow farm sprawled on the side of the road, or the forest flowers in full blossom. You feel the temperature change as you drop into a shady valley or as you roll into a busy town. You even hear the busy chirping and singing of birds as you cross through forest clearings where they nest.

More importantly, the best part about a riding journey is the intimacy you feel with your surroundings. There are no walls or windows to separate you from the world you experience. As you ride through towns, the people walking on the road, or waiting for a ride (yes, hitchhiking is still alive and well in Romania) are right there, next to you—you can literally reach and touch them. Well, I would not advise trying to touch them at 30 miles per hour, since that would possibly be hazardous to everyone’s health. But, the lack of a ‘bubble’ or ‘cage’ as some call it, certainly makes the experience more intense. And this fact is validated by the spontaneous exchanges experienced while riding (whether moving or at a stop). People tend to take notice and follow you with an active, inquisitive stare. Sometimes, you can read their questions or thoughts on their faces as you go by. Other times, if stopped, they approach more easily to ask questions or share their own motorcycle experiences. “This bike is huge!” “WOW! How big is the motor?” “Where are you from?” “You know, I had a bike 30 years ago—I went everywhere with that thing…” “I like your bike. I also have a bike—it’s a Jawa 350.” The stories keep coming and flowing, seemingly following a certain rhythm of their own. On certain days, it’s a rhythm whose groove is easy to find and understand. On others, the noise may be too loud—which generally means that you have to wait ‘till later to let the rhythm reveal itself.

“To ride or not to ride?” is not really a question. The music is always playing. Do you want to listen? — BGR

Join us for one of our most memorable journeys with twists and wonders of 1,200 kilometers! From the experiencing the beauty of Serbia across the Danube to roads washed out by the spring floods to meeting the postman of a small village enroute home on his tractor to enjoying wonderful conversation and dinner with our host family in the village of Horezu to visits at three monasteries nestled in the Capatanii mountains to experiencing Constantin Brancusi’s works in Targu Jiu’s parks to kilometers of twisty roads along the Jiu Valley to Petrosani and into Hateg with spectacular views of the Retezat Mountains.

Riding south from Timisoara into Resita, we were greeted with good asphalt and expansive views of the plains and the mountains.

From Bocsa to Resita to Anina and into Oravita, the narrow road snaked through picturesque villages, revealing crumbling factories and high-rise flats in stark contrast to the backdrop of the natural beauty of the forests. We witnessed again that the former Communist dictator, Ceausescu had left very few areas of the country untouched with his supposed ‘grand plan for civilization.’

One of our favorite stops was along the mountain road into Oravita, when we captured these playful little lizards on camera! – HSR

Our recent week-long visit to Caminul Felix Villages was as always, enlightening. With every visit, we have the opportunity to meet another family, to listen to another child’s dream, and to share our hearts with many happy children.

We enjoyed this week’s backyard bonfire and watching World Cup 2006 soccer matches with the kids. It was a fun experience learning how to make langosi and placinte with Elena. We met a U.S. mission team of ten students serving at CF for two weeks. Representing various Christian colleges, their home base was just 30 miles north of Louisville, Kentucky.

We also met two students from California who were interning for three months with children with disabilities in a special school and at the children’s hospital. We shared lunch and an evening of stories with a couple from California in their 11th month working at CF. We witnessed the CF teenagers unloading a trailer truck filled with furniture and work supplies for a Rotary team from California completing two apartments at the Teenage House for the children making the transition into independent living.

The common thread in all of these people and their stories was their service with their hearts and their hands for the children. These generous folks were bringing to life the words of Caminul Felix’s founder, “Each child deserves a happy family.”

One of the most inspirational events for us was meeting Joe, a 76 year-old gentleman from California. This was his 21st visit to Caminul Felix Villages. He and his wife have three children and two grandchildren. He shared about his love for the “thirteen grandchildren in the Calvary House.” The mutual affection is evident when he showed us the popcorn machine he had brought as a present and the welcome notes posted by the children on their house door.

As one of 58 team members who had built the Calvary House, he vividly recalled his first visit in 2000 commenting, “I have never done anything in my life that I enjoy more.” He owns a plumbing and heating business and has not yet retired. He has assisted CF with numerous installations from kitchens to bathrooms to the village conversion from propane to natural gas “digging by hand 2 1/2 miles and 36 inches deep.” He will visit CF three times in 2006 and serve as part of another team build next month.

With his eyes sparkling, he said, “Caminul Felix is like a disease…the doctors have not found a cure yet. You must visit.”

At every turn of this journey, we have been confronted with the beauty and the simplicity of giving. Our smallest acts of kindness have brought us unspeakable joy and contentment. We have also experienced the humility of receiving often in the most unlikely circumstances.

We encourage you to open your heart to experience the passion of giving. It is a promise that receiving will never feel the same again.– HSR

A day exploring the Mures Valley can be quite a pleasant experience. The road meanders along the sinews of the Mures river, passing through picturesque towns and villages, revealing sights of vineyards and gardens, and providing the opportunity to glance at the occasional castle.

The Abbey of Maria-Radna (1756) is an old pilgrimage site which is now a hospital. Across the bridge from Radna is the historic, cobblestone-paved town of Lipova with its authentic Turkish bazaar and intriguing 15th century Orthodox church. It is also home to the Lipova mineral water and a reviving small spa resort.

Riding down the road and reaching the town of Savarsin, we glimpse through the trees to view one of the residences of Romania’s last king, King Mihai (1940-47). He currently resides in Switzerland, and comes to Savarsin usually for Christmas.

As the road hugs the hills on one side, villages developed in areas where the river provided enough clearing for agriculture. Village after village you see people resting on benches in front of their houses, while others stroll or bike around. The oddity is that more often than not, people walk on the actual roadway, which is frequented by heavy commercial traffic. Currently, the road, E68, is one of the busiest highways in Romania. Thankfully, a beautiful 13th century church and cemetery in Gurasada make a welcome stopping point along the twisty road.

Passing through the city of Deva, we continue south to Hunedoara and the location of one of Transylvania’s treasures, the Corvin Castle. Surrounded by the ugliness of abandoned steel mills, the 14th century castle boasts a drawbridge, three pointed towers, marble columns, splendid halls, and high fortifications. The castle was most recently restored in the early 1950s. Definitely worth the visit! – BGR

The ruins of Soimos are a favorite hiking and picnicking spot for families on a Sunday afternoon. Soimos is located just a few kilometers up the road from the center of Lipova in Arad County.

The hike to the ruins is a pleasant, steep trek on a narrow path with pastoral views overlooking the Mures Valley. Grazing sheep and horses on the hillside complete the picture.

The ruins are surprisingly well preserved despite their relative accessibility. They were built in the 13th century and reinforced in the 15th century. If you are in the area, it is worth a visit.- BGR & HSR

As a passenger, perhaps the most difficult part of the adventure is the confrontation with the fact that there is no plan. There cannot be a plan, as Romanian roads bring uncertainty and the weather is unpredictable. I am reminded there is no documented itinerary charting our course – only the map to review, money to change, motorcycle bags to be packed, and then the riding begins!

Our mission remains constant. We ride wherever the road takes us - and often only as far as it takes us. We ride in whatever weather the day holds – and how we miss the Weather Channel with weather on the 6s. We ride to experience the sights and the sounds of Romania to share together - and then with you.

With three luggage carriers on the motorcycle, packing the house is not an option. We each have one saddle bag for clothing with the trunk holding the air compressor, chain spray, First Aid kit, toiletries, 2 liter of water, toilet paper (a must as Romania does not have easily accessible public restrooms), and in case of rain, space for the tank bag with the camera and travel books.

In regards to lodging, the option to call ahead for a reservation is not possible with our late arrival into small rural villages. There are no chain hotels except in the capital or large cities (Best Western, Hotel Intercontinental, etc.). There are local hotels and pensuines offering rooms in towns. Since we are frequently in small, rural villages, we simply look for a sign indicating a room (cazare) or utilize travel books to learn of families networked with Antrec. Antrec is similar to bed-and-breakfast networks offering a room in private homes. Again, a part of the adventure and a wonderful opportunity to experience unparalleled hospitality.

Riding days are quiet days. For the driver, it is a time of extreme focus and concentration on the roads as well as absorbing the beauty of his native country. For me, it is a time of intense reflection and overwhelming experience. I am flooded with emotions and thoughts on the simplicity of life, as I watch the fields being worked through sweat and hard work. I experience the hospitality of the Romanian people with their interest in learning about our journey, and view poverty and wealth existing side by side. I continue to be humbled at every turn of the journey. - HSR

May and June are great months to visit Romania. The weather is pleasant, the trees are in bloom, and the Romanian plains are covered with the brilliant red patches of poppies (maci). Here is a sample from one of our days on the road. - HSR

The Arad Auto Expo was a real hit with visitors, and a success for vendors as well. The expo was focused mainly on cars, with the usual manufacturers on hand to show their vehicles--VW, BMW, Mercedes, Ford, Opel, Seat, Renault, Toyota, Nissan. The show also included a couple of motorcycle stands, namely BMW and Yamaha.

The atmosphere was great, highlighted by the presence of a 150,000-Euro Aston Martin and an almost equally expensive Maseratti, both swarmed by throngs of fans and expo models. From the offerings, it is clear that with the price of gas at $5 per gallon, and with diesel fuel cheaper, Europeans in general, and Romanians in particular, greatly favor diesel-powered vehicles. Consequently, all manufacturers provide a host of diesel motors in most of their classes. It was surprising to see BMWs (even the 5 and 7 series) powered by diesels, not to mention the VWs, Opels and others. The technology has come a long way from the 1980s smoky, loud motors that the US market shunned. These new motors are quieter, smoother and considerably more powerful. When it comes to choices, more is better... - BGR

Are you worried about your real estate investments in the US market? You may want to diversify internationally!

Here's what Habitat for Humanity has posted on its website:

Romania, Most Profitable European Destination For Real Estate Investments

Romania is on the first place in a top of the most profitable 20 European states in terms of the estimated profit for the following 10 years in the real estate field, according to British TV station Channel 4. Amanda Lamb, expert in property evaluation, explained that Romania has great economic growth perspectives, given the future EU accession. The analyst showed that a country house, bought with 17,000 GB pounds, with invested funds of some EUR 145,000 might be sold for some EUR 750,000 after 10 years. The analyst estimates that investors will be attracted to the Romanian real estate market after the EU accession. Poland is on the second place in the top, with a profitability rate of 393 percent, followed by Portugal, Estonia, Lithuania and Latvia. The top was based on data supplied by consultancy company PricewaterhouseCoopers regarding the economic growth rate of each state.

With spring rains impeding our motorcycle adventures, we enjoyed a long weekend with family in the cozy resort town of Moneasa nestled in the Codru-Moma Mountains. Even in the rain, Moneasa’s beautiful, towering pine trees, meandering streams, and hiking trails are uplifting and serene.

It is the perfect place with its own pace to retreat with a good book or to meet old and new friends. There are plenty of hotel rooms, villas for rental or camping spots available. The pool (strand) is open for a swim. The grill and terrace invite a taste of mici with a good selection of local brews and snack items. Mici are a Romanian speciality sausage made with spicy pork and beef, that's usually enjoyed with fresh bread and mustard.

The hiking trails are well marked throughout the adjoining hillsides. We headed for the trails for mid-morning exercise, to enjoy the fresh mountain air and nature’s beauty. Our trail ended at the Bats’ Cave perched on the mountain. We did not have proper lighting and clothing (thankfully!) to explore the supposed 30 meters of very narrow passage before the cave apparently opens into an expansive room.

A special place to enjoy a few days celebrating good conversation, good food and good rest. – BGR & HSR