Our next stop was at the Iron Gates (Portile de Fier). Completed in 1972, the Gates are a massive, concrete dam that generates hydro-electric power. The top of the dam also serves as a road linking the borders of Romania and Serbia. Signage clearly dictated that no photographing was allowed – but the English speaking passenger claimed lack of understanding…

Despite the lack of pedestrian access (in contrast to the Hoover Dam), we took in the remaining views of the Danube and Serbia. The landscape darkened and bore the mar of industrialization.

Continuing into the city of Drobeta Turnu-Severin named the “town of roses” for its beautiful parks, we spent a few moments in the downtown area. The town displayed a clear link to its past—18th and 19th centuries architecture, ornate parks, monuments. Yet, somehow, there was an air of tiredness about the town, a feeling difficult to explain. And the feeling persisted in spite of the beautiful summer day.

We continued into Craiova passing the oil wells and industrial past of Communism. Surrounded by pollution, it would have been easy to keep riding right through Craiova. However, the university downtown was vibrant and bustling with traffic and new storefronts. During the first part of the 20th century, Craiova was a strong francophone city—should you have walked its streets, you would have been hard-pressed to figure out whether you were in France or elsewhere. Between the architecture and the seeming joie de vivre of its citizens, the town displays a character all its own. It is home to Craiova beer. It also boasts a beautiful art museum which houses a selection of Brancusi’s pieces. The museum was supposedly home to a former Polish president and later Ceausescu.

From Craiova we headed to Slatina and took a left on the road that parallels the river Olt. We rode into the Olt Valley skirting spring storms, passing several rural villages, through Dragasani and into Ramnicu Valcea. Ramnicu Valcea is another industrial stronghold. After what seemed to have been the day of industry—from the Iron Gates, to Craiova, to Ramnicu Valcea—we decided that the fresh air of the countryside was clearly needed. So we headed for Horezu, a well-known town. On the way, we stopped in the quiet village of Costesti which boasts the annual Roma Festival. The September festival draws several Romas from across Romania, who generally come either by horse and cart or their vehicle of choice—the Mercedes-Benz. – BGR & HSR