Wednesday, June 28, 2006

Every time we get on the road, there’s a sense of anticipation dominating the early part of the ride. What will we see? What will we experience? How will the roads be? Will we have any surprises? Then, as we ride, some of these questions find answers—OK, the roads are pretty decent so far; the views are quite satisfying and enjoyable. We settle in the rhythm of traffic and the motorcycle. Some roads have lighter traffic allowing us to enjoy a tamer pace unencumbered. Other roads are burdened by logging trucks, commercial tractor trailers, delivery vans, and always-in-a-hurry passenger vehicles. On such a road, it is almost impossible to savor the sights, not to mention the sounds—if you don’t keep up with traffic, you risk being able to read the small company logo on the headlights from the truck behind you that’s about to mount you…… “aha! Hella Hallogen 55 Watts! I’ve always wondered who made those bright and shiny beams…”

The beauty of two-lane roads is that they tend to be more scenic and less monotone. The downside of two-lane roads in Romania is the lack of alternatives, such as divided highways, or freeways. That being said, if the day is sunny, pleasantly warm (underline ‘pleasantly’), and traffic is bearable, it is such a joy to roll through fields, valleys, mountain passes, forests, and simply sense the rhythm of the world around you. With the motorcycle engine humming contently, you can settle enough to smell the fresh grass being mowed as you pass through a village, the scent of the cow farm sprawled on the side of the road, or the forest flowers in full blossom. You feel the temperature change as you drop into a shady valley or as you roll into a busy town. You even hear the busy chirping and singing of birds as you cross through forest clearings where they nest.

More importantly, the best part about a riding journey is the intimacy you feel with your surroundings. There are no walls or windows to separate you from the world you experience. As you ride through towns, the people walking on the road, or waiting for a ride (yes, hitchhiking is still alive and well in Romania) are right there, next to you—you can literally reach and touch them. Well, I would not advise trying to touch them at 30 miles per hour, since that would possibly be hazardous to everyone’s health. But, the lack of a ‘bubble’ or ‘cage’ as some call it, certainly makes the experience more intense. And this fact is validated by the spontaneous exchanges experienced while riding (whether moving or at a stop). People tend to take notice and follow you with an active, inquisitive stare. Sometimes, you can read their questions or thoughts on their faces as you go by. Other times, if stopped, they approach more easily to ask questions or share their own motorcycle experiences. “This bike is huge!” “WOW! How big is the motor?” “Where are you from?” “You know, I had a bike 30 years ago—I went everywhere with that thing…” “I like your bike. I also have a bike—it’s a Jawa 350.” The stories keep coming and flowing, seemingly following a certain rhythm of their own. On certain days, it’s a rhythm whose groove is easy to find and understand. On others, the noise may be too loud—which generally means that you have to wait ‘till later to let the rhythm reveal itself.

“To ride or not to ride?” is not really a question. The music is always playing. Do you want to listen? — BGR

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