Tuesday, June 27, 2006




A day exploring the Mures Valley can be quite a pleasant experience. The road meanders along the sinews of the Mures river, passing through picturesque towns and villages, revealing sights of vineyards and gardens, and providing the opportunity to glance at the occasional castle.

The Abbey of Maria-Radna (1756) is an old pilgrimage site which is now a hospital. Across the bridge from Radna is the historic, cobblestone-paved town of Lipova with its authentic Turkish bazaar and intriguing 15th century Orthodox church. It is also home to the Lipova mineral water and a reviving small spa resort.

Riding down the road and reaching the town of Savarsin, we glimpse through the trees to view one of the residences of Romania’s last king, King Mihai (1940-47). He currently resides in Switzerland, and comes to Savarsin usually for Christmas.

As the road hugs the hills on one side, villages developed in areas where the river provided enough clearing for agriculture. Village after village you see people resting on benches in front of their houses, while others stroll or bike around. The oddity is that more often than not, people walk on the actual roadway, which is frequented by heavy commercial traffic. Currently, the road, E68, is one of the busiest highways in Romania. Thankfully, a beautiful 13th century church and cemetery in Gurasada make a welcome stopping point along the twisty road.

Passing through the city of Deva, we continue south to Hunedoara and the location of one of Transylvania’s treasures, the Corvin Castle. Surrounded by the ugliness of abandoned steel mills, the 14th century castle boasts a drawbridge, three pointed towers, marble columns, splendid halls, and high fortifications. The castle was most recently restored in the early 1950s. Definitely worth the visit! – BGR

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