Friday, September 01, 2006

The largest town in Maramures and the county seat is Baia Mare (Big Mine). The city was known for its gold mines in the 14th and 15th centuries. During Ceausescu's regime, there was a permanent sulphur-dioxide/metal powder smog looming overhead from the metal plants (annually 5 billion cubic meters of gases were emitted). In the 1990s, a new smoke stack was constructed to ease air pollution. Then, in early 2000, a spill from the Aurul gold mine contaminated the water supply of 2.5 million people, devastated ecosystems of rivers, and affected six countries. Cyanide-contaminated water was released from the mine reaching nearby rivers, then the Danube and on to the Black Sea. We noticed the drinking water was still considered unsafe in this area.



We were impressed at Baia Mare's expansive and revitalizing Piata Libertatii with its renovated storefronts and terraces. The 14th century Stephen's Tower is nearby. After relaxing in the afternoon sunshine and making calls for lodging, we headed north to Vadu Izei.




We arrive at Pensiune Dumbrava Minunata, a beautiful wooden guesthouse off the main street on a hillside. The gazebo provided an excellent dinner spot to enjoy the sunset and picnic. – HSR & BGR

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