It was an unexpected afternoon ride to the little village of Grosii Noi.

Looking at a map, we saw a road connecting the village of Capruta (located on E68 between Arad and Deva) with the town of Gurahont. Based on the meanderings of the map lines, it seemed like a real scenic treat, especially considering that it rides up through the hills into the mountains. Sure enough, the road was extremely scenic. After 5 km or so, it even turned to dirt, making the experience that much more rustic.

The views through the valleys were truly enjoyable—the lush spring green of the forests sprinkled here and there with cows and flocks of sheep. We passed through small villages where life seems to have stood still for the past 100 years, save for the occasional satellite dish poised on the roof.

Grosii Noi was one of those villages. Certainly, you would never think to make this a stopping point on this trip. The village does have an old wooden church bordered by the local cemetery—a postcard image of a different era. And the folks are curious but friendly, responding to your ‘Buna ziua’ with a nod and a ‘Buna’ or ‘Buna ziua’ of their own.

We were brought to this stop by the fact that a sudden summer rain had turned the uphill road past Grosii Noi into an impassable route. The muddy road led to a tail-wagging adventure, which on a motorcycle is hardly ever predictable or particularly enjoyable. We tried to continue, but it became clear that the road with the continuing rain would not relent. As we sat pondering and scraping mud off the tires with a stick, a man appeared walking towards Grosii Noi. We asked him about the roads ahead. He replied that the road was about to hit a long and fairly steep climb over the looming hills, and yes, it was still muddy and slick.

After deciding to turn back, we stopped in Grosii Noi to stretch and have some mineral water (apa minerala) by the old wooden church. We were greeted by the most friendly man and his wife, passing through town with their cows pulling a cart filled with hay. Their open glances were followed by the question: “Do you want to take a picture of us? You’ve got to show this out there. This is work no one else does—it’s like a museum here.”

Despite their generous offer, we felt odd about sticking a camera in their faces simply to satisfy our tourist need to capture the sight. Of course, looking back, we should have. The amazing image of the couple with their cart against the backdrop of the wooden church was absolutely memorable. And their way of life, even according to their words was worth documenting. Perhaps next time.

The funniest story for the day was the goose attack! Yes, on the motorcycle! Being spring, the geese in the villages were all coddling and defending their young as they grazed by the road side. As we passed just a bit too close to one of the geese and the little ones, the male (presumably) decided that our presence was simply to threatening. So, in a blink of an eye it was 5 feet up in the air, flapping its wings and attempting to strike with its beak. Ouch! The ever-enduring wife received the brunt of this attack, but thankfully it was over in a flash as the motorcycle sped away. However, the memory of this brief moment will live on… Beware of the geese!

It was a reminder of rural Romania which has seen better times. It was a reminder of the life that exists in places we have never imagined visiting or even heard of. There are no tourist attractions in the village of Grosii Noi. There are no swanky cafes or chic boutiques. There is, however, an amazing place where time seems to have lost its presence, where nature and human presence have found the balance of life. Sadly, such places are slowly wittling away in Romania, as elsewhere, with the young generations moving to the big cities in search of better jobs.

For now, life in the peaceful village of Grosii Noi continues, one day at a time. – BGR & HSR