Founded in the 15th and 16th centuries, Southern Bucovina's painted monasteries are indeed masterpieces of historical art and architecture. (Note this region is really northern Moldova.) Considering that these exterior paintings are only 0.25 millimeters in thickness, they remain well preseved after more than 500 years! The Bzyantine style paintings (with a hint of mythology and local folk art) were for the faithful illiterate. Only exterior photographs are permitted with an additional photography and video tax.



Outside of Gura Humorului is the peaceful Humor Monastery known for its reddish brown color (as well as blues and greens). Unlike the other monasteries, it is surrounded by wooden walls and has no spire. It has a traditional Moldovan open porch which was the first to be built in Bucovina. The atmosphere is serene and the church's interior is spectacular. The tower with its steep, narrow stairs provides an excellent vantage point to take in the beautiful grounds.




Not far down the road is the Voronet Monastery – a sharp contrast to Humor with its swarming tourists and souvenir stands. Known as the "Sistine Chapel" of the East, its distinct blue hues and Last Judgment scenes are its main attraction. The weather has erased much of the frescoes on the north-facing wall. It was built by Moldovan prince, Stefan cel Mare (Stephen the Great) out of gratitude to God, then abandoned in the 18th century due to the Austrians. Since 1991, it has been inhabited by nuns.




North to Vatra Moldovitei, we arrive at the Moldovita Monastery known for its yellow colors and unique fortified quadrangular shape with impressive towers and gates. The original throne of King Petru Rares is housed in the museum onsite. We also noticed two other motorcyclists inquirying from one of the nuns of lodging in the area.





After the monastery visit, it's 7:30 p.m., again, and we are on a spectacular stretch of road through the mountains. We both open the motorcycle helmet visors to smell and feel the fresh, crisp air. The twisty road seems to be only for us with hardly any traffic. We simply enjoy every moment!




We arrive into Sucevita and search for lodging. We like Casa Andrea at the first drive-by, so decide to stop and inquire of availability. It was perfect – a locked garage for the motorcycle, balcony, king size bed (rare for Europe), and complete with a traditional dinner of trout and sour cream sauce with mamaliga (polenta) and cheese. Unfortunately, we were so hungry that we forgot to take a picture of this culinary delight! We spent the wee hours of the morning listening to the nearby creek, taking in the night sounds of the wildlife, and watching the stars.



Expect to pay between $20 - $50 Euros for lodging in the Bucovina area. It is well worth a week or two in one of Romania's treasures! – HSR & BGR